What special things should I know about portable pools

The First Thing You Need Is That Legacy Pools Is The Most Powerful Name In Above Ground Pools – Portable Pools

Portable Pool FAQs

 

Understanding Your Pool

The material used in making your portable pool liner is the very strongest poly-reinforced liner material available.  So strong is this type of material, it actually resists ripping and tearing.

However, it can be punctured.  Although punctures, pin-holes and small drip leaks are not covered under warranty it is important to understand that they have no impact on the structural integrity of your pool and never has a small leak or puncture resulted in a failed liner.  So take care when unpacking, moving and assembling your  pool liner.

 

“Heal Thyself Pool.”

As hard as it may be to believe, your pool actually can heal itself.  How is that possible? Because of the tightly woven polyester scrim embedded in the liner material, a puncture will not rip or tear further.  In most cases, an unintentional puncture is as small as the head of a ball-point pen. In this case, the impurities found in your water will eventually clog-up the opening. You can actually see it happening over a period of time. However, if you don’t want to wait, you can use the included repair kit. Oh, and you can even repair your pool while it is still filled with water.

 

Trouble-Shooting

What is “weeping”?: Weeping is a natural occurrence with welded liner material. What is happening is a small amount of pool water is being squeezed out of a new liner’s welded areas.  If your ground has a slope or grade to it, this small amount of water may form a puddle.  Weeping is only temporary and stops within a short amount of time.

 

My pool was punctured what can I do?: A puncture on your pool is easily fixable.  In most cases, the puncture can be fixed without draining the pool.  Simply use the repair kit included with your pool.

 

I have been told that a leak is the sign of a pool liner about to give way: This is true of the old non-reinforced vinyl liners of yesteryear (used with the metal-sided above-ground pool). If a leak occurred with those liners, they would easily rip further. This is NOT the case with your pool.  The reinforced material used in your pool is similar to what is used with military inflatable boats. This material actually resists ripping and tearing.

 

Can I let my dog or cat play in the pool?: We would be very surprised if you can get your cat to play in the pool.  Dogs, on the other hand, love our pools.  Their claws will not damage the liner, but may scuff the surface.  But be careful, dog hair could play havoc with your filtering system.

 

My U-Pipes are digging into the ground.:  This may happen, even if you place your pool on asphalt.  Water seeks its own level and if your ground has settled at all, the U-Pipes may dig down a bit.

 

The pool wall is really bowed in.: As mentioned before this may occur as your pool is filling or if it is only partially filled.  But once the pool water reach 2/3 full the bowing should decrease.  If it persists, then your ground has compacted and maybe settling under the liner more the perimeter. You may need to drain and relevel the ground.

 

The Vertical openings in the liner do not line up with the holes in the horizontal pipes.:  If the frame is not firmly connected, this can slightly misalign the holes and openings (usually on the long sides).  This is not a problem and will not interfere with your pools structural integrity.

 

One on my corners has popped out.:  It is rare, but it has happened. Your pool will not fail, fall over, or collapse (our competitors do not even have corners on their pools).  Unfortunately, the only way to re-attach the corner is to drain the pool. If this happens, leave it for the season, then, when the pool is not being uses as much, drain it and re-attach the corner.

 

My pool is creaking.: This will probably happen for the first few days.  The pool is settling and the liner is adjusting on the frame. There is nothing ominous about this sound.

 

There is a dirty ring at my water edge.: Just like a bathtub, a dirty ring may form along the water edge. This is a combination of pollutants in your water combining and drying on the water edge of your inside liner. Usually just a little rubbing will remove it. For more stubborn stains check with your local pool supply dealer, they will have something for you to use that will not harm the liner.

 

Are there any chemicals that can harm my liner?: Chlorine is perhaps that harshest chemical you will introduce to your pool.  This, if poured directly on the liner, may/will cause fading but will not deteriorate the liner material. Do not use any kind of petroleum solvent (paint thinner, acetone, etc…). This will dissolve the PVC coating on your liner.

 

What can I use to clean my liner?: In most cases, regular dish soap and water will work fine.  For more stubborn stains, you can use denatured alcohol (found in most hardware stores).  This will clean without damage to the liner material.

 

Can I leave my pool up all year-round?:  Yes.  It can even freeze solid without any damage to the liner. Remember this liner material is NOT like the traditional non-reinforced vinyl-liners used with metal-sided above-ground pools.  Your liner will not dry out, become brittle, crack or rip and tear like the non-reinforced liner material.

 

Characteristics of Your Pool

Punctures, Pinhole Leaks, and Drip Leaks: It is not uncommon, that during assembly, your liner develops a small puncture or pinhole leak.  These punctures are caused by various reasons (something was dropped on the liner, something poked through the liner during the install, it was dragged over an abrasive surface, etc.). although these kind of punctures are not covered under warranty, they do not have any structural effect on your liner or warranty and are easily fixable using the repair kit included.

 

An Out-of-Level Pool:  There is no way to predict what your ground will do when thousands of pounds of water weight are placed on top.  Despite all your best efforts, the pool may still end up being out-of-level. This may require you to drain, disassemble, and remove the pool so you can re-level (and possible re-flatten) the pool site.  We reserve the right to void your warranty if your pool is out of level or uneven.

 

Never Use Blocks to Level Your Pool:  It is common misconception that you can make this type of pool level by placing blocks, tiles, wood or other rigid surface underneath the base U-pipes.  This may keep the frame level but will not be leveling the pool liner. We reserve the right to void your warranty if your pool is out of level or uneven.

 

The Pool Wall is “Bowing” In:  “Bowing” is a natural characteristic of a soft-sided pool. This “Bowing” may be much more dramatic and profound during filling. This is because the water weight is pulling the liner downward forcing the top rail frame to lean in. In most cases, this bowing will decrease as the water level rises. However, it is not uncommon for slight bowing to remain.  If your ground has settled at all, or is slightly out-of-level, one side may bow more than another.

Water Levels Chlorine, Salt Or Copper Silver

Water follows certain natural laws just like other thing around us.     Sanitizing  as in 1.4 chlorine and 7.4 ph  factor.  The Copper Silver unit or the Salt water generator would maintains the levels. You put a cup fill of salt in the water and the unit will convert to chlorine .It doesn’t mean there are chemical  In the water it mean the  salt is eliminating the impureness in the water to safe levels for neutral water..  The salt you introduce to the water will create the chlorine to sanitize the water.  The Copper and Silver ion unit will sanitize the water as it passes  over the diodes as the water return to the pool on the right side of the filter we send you.  Its not the chemicals in the water its balanced water  with the salt and the diodes which ever one you choose..   Yes, the water can be heated  will include in the price we give you.  The skamper ramp is a floating  platform for the animal to get in and out as it slowing sinks in water. The dog moves up and out.  Give him a treat several times and  he will remember and use it to get in and out anytime at his will.  The price on the dog pool is the correct one.  I didn’t  see the other one you referred to.   The cost to send to Netherlands is to the Port in Rotterdam or Amsterdam.  About 799.99.  After you receive a call from Port Authority you drive there and pick it up.  Or arrange with us .  The pool comes a a pallet 4’x 4 x 4 x 4 by 52” high. Can be be broken down to individual cartons for loading on your vehicle. The pallet is shrink wrapped tight and secured to pallet. Any time you need assistance we are here to answer the question in the most competent and professional answers available in world today.  You can be assured we’re at your side with the answers.
Shipping time from the payment date is 32 days.
 
 
 

5 Things The Above Ground Pool Industry Does Not Want you To Know

 

 

Legacy Pools are so easy to install you can save $2000.00 just by not paying an installer!

The Tale Of Two Technologies: Old Style steel wall pools invented in 1945 or the New Style Legacy Pools

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shop Legacy Pools

5 Things The Above Ground Pool Industry Does Not Want you To Know

You might be seeing some killer deals on old fashioned steel above ground pools these days, Well There is a reason…..5 to be exact

 

1. They are a pain to assemble and wrinkled liners.  They are not all that hard to put together but they are a challenge to put together right.  So many issues , so many potential problems and if you don’t get it just right your backyard dream will be a nightmare. And so called professional pool installers are no answer. We hear more negative feedback about these “professionals” that we have stopped referring them. So if you want leaky and wrinkled liners possible pool failures and all sorts of nightmares….these steel pools well let you have it.  install
   
2. Liner replacement So you bought a pool with a 50 year warranty.  You were  aware that your warranty does cover the liner and you could be replacing it ever few years. and going through the same installer nightmare all over again. These 20 and 25 mil liners as they are advertised can be as thin as fifteen mill in some places.  And finding a leak in  an above ground pool liner is like finding a needle in a haystack  tornliner
   
3. Lumpy Bottoms Pinhole leaks and rust spots. In a typical pool installation sand is used at the bottom, and sand has some unique properties.  It moves and causes lumpy bottom pools and the dirt just loves to gather in those depression. Also sand loves static electricity and will happily stick to the pool wall while you install the liner.   over a couple of years that little grain of sand will cause a pinhole leak in the liner, causing a tiny rust spot to develop on the pool. get enough of these and your lovely pool wall starts looking like a acne ridden teenagers face.  rustysand
   
4  Replacement parts and warranty satisfaction.  As your pool gets to be about five years old you will notice the acrylic parts are starting to crack from exposure to the extreme cold and heat that a year can put them through. And you will want to replace those. But good luck doing that. Pool companies have been bought and sold so many times, that you don’t even know if your pool’s manufacturers are going to be around in 5 years.  Then even if you can locate them and get them to answer the phone, getting them to honor their warranties almost takes a lawyer.  Wilbar, Sharklline, Swimnplay, Doughboy, Trevi and Cornelius Pools are most notorious for poor customer service and their pools should be avoided altogether  dealer
   
5. 60 year old technology. These pools were developed soon after World War II and nothing has really changed about them.  Rust, Leaking around the plumbing fittings, blowouts at the bottom of the pools, difficulty services and cleaning, usually turn these pools into green frog ponds in a year or two as the owner soon becomes disillusioned with the idea of pool ownership and the family dream of the backyard vacation spot fades into the memories of summers past  damaged

 Grass Poking Through, Wrinkles in the Liner, Leaks, Top Ledges that are hot to the touch  and can burn

So…..how can you keep the dream alive?

With a 21st century solution.   The Most Advanced, Toughest, Reliable Pool With Kevlar Technology can take you away from all the troubles of a “traditional” above ground pool

Sometimes…they new school, is the best school

lagunaBlue2Legacy Pool Install

Legacy Portable Pools solve all the problems of the old fashion pools

  • Legacy Portable Pools Set up in Minutes  Not days
  • Legacy Liners are tough enough to withstand anything,  Even kids dogs and lions they never need replacing
  • The Pool does’t need to sit on sand, In fact we recommend never using sand on these pools. 
  • The framework is Teflon Powder coated galvanized steel that never rusts
  • The pool is treated with Antifungal coatings so that algae cannot get a foothold in your pool liner
  • The pool is treated with Diocytol Phthalate  a plasticizer that keeps it flexible even below freezing
  • The pool is treated with an Anti UV coating so sun does not degrade the material of the pool.
  • It moves when you need it to move, No problem…takes down as easily as it goes up
  • It is also the favored pool of Dog Daycare, Animal Rehabs, Swim Schools and Hollywood movie production, it can stand up to anything.

 

How Much Does It Cost To Run and Above Ground Pool Pump

How Much Does It Cost To Run and Above Ground Pool Pump

 

While cost vary from location to location below you will find a good ball park figure

Monthly Cost  Based on running the recommended 8 hours a day

 

 

Horse Power   Cost Per Month @
1/2hp   12.00
3/4 hp   16.00
1hp   22.00
1.5hp   30.00
2.hp   36.00

 

 

pump

 

 

How Much Does It Cost To Heat A Pool

How Much Does It Cost To Heat A Pool

Estimated Costs of Outdoor Pool Gas Heating by Location*

16,000 Gallon Pool

Location Season Temperature
78° 80° 82°
Miami 1/1–12/31 $2136 $2848 $3600
w/cover 1/1–12/31 $416 $584 $800
Phoenix 3/1–10/31 $1384 $1776 $2216
w/ cover 3/1–10/31 $96 $168 $256
Dallas 4/1–10/31 $1512 $1920 $2456
w/ cover 4/1–10/31 $184 $280 $408
Atlanta 4/1–10/31 $1704 $2248 $2880
w/ cover 4/1–10/31 $320 $424 $592
Los Angeles 5/1–10/31 $1864 $2376 $2904
w/ cover 5/1–10/31 $168 $304 $472
Kansas City 5/1–10/31 $1434 $1872 $2384
w/ cover 5/1–10/31 $288 $416 $544
New York 5/1–9/30 $1448 $1904 $2384
w/ cover 5/1–9/30 $208 $296 $400
Chicago 5/1–9/30 $1621 $2072 $2536
w/ cover 5/1–9/30 $216 $296 $384
Denver 5/1–8/31 $1757 $2120 $2498
w/ cover 5/1–8/31 $123 $168 $243
Boston 5/1–8/31 $1712 $2096 $2504
w/ cover 5/1–8/31 $232 $328 $461
Minneapolis 6/1–9/30 $1331 $1776 $2176
w/ cover 6/1–9/30 $192 $248 $384
San Francisco 6/1–8/31 $1560 $1856 $2168
w/ cover 6/1–8/31 $192 $320 $472
Seattle 6/1–8/31 $1525 $1784 $2056
w/ cover 6/1–8/31 $304 $424 $552

*Figures based on a 1,000 square-foot, outdoor pool heated with an 80% efficient natural gas heater at $.80 per therm and uncovered for 8 hours per day.

If you’re replacing a gas pool heater, you can use the following formula to determine your annual cost savings with a higher efficiency gas pool heater model:

Current Annual Cost x [1 – (Current Efficiency ÷ New Efficiency)]

 

 

ESTIMATING HEAT PUMP SWIMMING POOL HEATER COSTS AND SAVINGS

Location Season Temperature
78° 80° 82°
Miami 1/1–12/31 $1100 $1460 $1845
w/ cover 1/1–12/31 $215 $300 $410
Phoenix 3/1–10/31 $680 $875 $1090
w/ cover 3/1–10/31 $45 $85 $125
Dallas 4/1–10/31 $760 $970 $1240
w/ cover 4/1–10/31 $90 $140 $205
Atlanta 4/1–10/31 $840 $1110 $1425
w/ cover 4/1–10/31 $155 $205 $290
Los Angeles 5/1–10/31 $950 $1210 $1485
w/ cover 5/1–10/31 $85 $155 $240
Kansas City 5/1–10/31 $715 $935 $1185
w/ cover 5/1–10/31 $145 $205 $270
New York 5/1–9/30 $740 $975 $1220
w/ cover 5/1–9/30 $105 $150 $200
Chicago 5/1–9/30 $810 $1035 $1270
w/ cover 5/1–9/30 $105 $150 $195
Denver 5/1–8/31 $875 $1055 $1245
w/ cover 5/1–8/31 $70 $100 $150
Boston 5/1–8/31 $875 $1075 $1280
w/ cover 5/1–8/31 $120 $165 $235
Minneapolis 6/1–9/30 $660 $850 $1040
w/ cover 6/1–9/30 $100 $125 $190
San Fran 6/1–8/31 $800 $950 $1110
w/ cover 6/1–8/31 $95 $165 $240
Seattle 6/1–8/31 $770 $900 $1035
w/ cover 6/1–8/31 $150 $215 $280

*Figures based on a 1,000 square foot, outdoor pool heated with an air to water heat pump with an average COP of 5.0 at $.085/kwh.

Table 2 estimates the annual savings of using a heat pump pool heater compared to using an electric resistance or gas pool heater.

Table 2. Annual Savings Comparisons of
Gas and Electric Pool Heaters*

Efficiency Annual Cost Cost w/ 5.0 COP Heat Pump Savings
Gas Pool Heater
55% $584 $200 $384
60% 535 $200 $335
65% 494 $200 $294
70% $459 $200 $259
75% $428 $200 $228
80% $402 $200 $202
85% $378 $200 $178
90% $357 $200 $157
95% $338 $200 $138
Electric Resistance
100% $1000 $200 $800

*Based on an electric resistance heated pool, which costs $1,000 per year at an electric cost of $.085/kwh, and using a natural gas cost 0f $.80/therm. A seasonal average COP of 5.0 was used to determine heat pump savings.

INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE

Proper installation and maintenance of your heat pump pool heater can optimize its efficiency. It’s best to have a qualified pool professional install the heater, especially the electric hookup, and perform complicated maintenance or repair tasks.

Read your owner’s manual for a maintenance schedule and/or recommendations. You’ll probably need to tune up your pool heater annually. Because of a heat pump pool heater’s many moving and electrical parts, it will probably require periodic service by an air conditioning technician.

With proper installation and maintenance, heat pump pool heaters can last 10 or more years.

How Much Does It Cost To Heat A Pool

What is salt and how does it apply to above ground pools

What Is Salt

What is salt and how does it apply to above ground pools?  

saltwaterpools
Sodium chloride or common salt is the chemical compound NaCl, composed of the elements sodium and chloride.  Salt occurs naturally in many parts of the world as the mineral  halite and as mixed evaporates in salt lakes.  Seawater  has lots of salt; it contains an average of 2.7% (by weight) NaCl, or 78 million metric tons per cubic kilometer, an inexhaustible supply (note: seawater also contains other dissolved solids; salt represents about 77% of the Total Dissolved Solids). Underground salt deposits are found in both bedded. sedimentary layers and domal deposits.  Deposits have been found to have encapsulated ancient microorganisms including bacteria.  Some salt is on the surface, the dried-up residue of ancient seas like the famed Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah.  Salt even arrives on earth from outer space in meteors and its presence on the planet Mars makes scientists think life may exist there (in fact, scientists speculate that salt-loving bacteria live in underground water on Mars — as they have survived in suspended animation for 250 million years in Texas).    Conversely, surface salt depositions and man-made saltworks can be seen from space.  In ocean coastal areas, saltwater can “intrude” on underground freshwater supplies, complicating the lives of those who provide our drinking water supplies.

Sodium chloride crystals are cubic in form. Table salt consists of tiny cubes t bound together. 

It varies in color from colorless, when pure, to white, gray or brownish, typical of rock salt (halite). Chemically, it is 60.663% elemental chlorine (Cl) and 39.337% sodium (Na). The atomic weight of elemental chlorine is 35.4527 and that of sodium is 22.989768.    Properties of salt are collected in the U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) Chemical Sampling Information database.  More extensive information is available on Material Data Safety Sheets  (MSDSs) or can be found on the following table.

Properties of Pure Sodium Chloride

Molecular weight – NaCl

58.4428

Atomic weight – Na

22.989768 (39.337%)

Atomic weight – Cl

35.4527 (60.663%)

Eutectic composition

23.31% NaCl

Freezing point of eutectic mixture

-21.12° C (-6.016°F)

Crystal form

isometric, cubic

Color

clear to white

Index of refraction

1.5442

Density or specific gravity

2.165 (135 lb/ft3)

Bulk density, approximate (dry, ASTM D 632 gradation)

1.154 (72 lb/ft3)

Angle of repose (dry, ASTM D 632 gradation)

32°

Melting point

800.8° C (1,473.4° F)

Boiling point

1,465°C (2,669° F)

Hardness (Moh’s Scale)

2.5

Critical humidity at 20 °C, (68° F)

75.3%

pH of aqueous solution

neutral

 

 

 

Sodium chloride is sold in several different particle sizes (gradation) and forms, depending on the intended end use. Discrete crystals can be seen in rock salt used for deicing. Fine granules are typical of table salt and even finer popcorn salt. Kosher salt, pickling salt and ice cream salt are slightly coarser. Small compressed pellets are used in water softeners and large salt blocks are used as salt licks for livestock. When viewed under strong magnification, all sodium chloride is crystalline. Very large cubic crystals, of two, three or more inches in size, can be seen in some salt mines. They are transparent and cleave into perfect cubes when struck with a hard object.

Purity of rock salt produced in North America varies depending on the type of salt (evaporated, rock, solar) and on the source. Rock salt typically ranges between 95% and 99% NaCl, and mechanically evaporated salt and solar salt normally exceed 99% NaCl. Evaporated salt made with purified brine has the highest purity, in some cases 99.99% NaCl. Voluntary standards, such as those developed by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), the American Water Works Association (AWWA) assure appropriate quality for the intended use. Mandatory specifications for food grade, drug/medical and analytical use include Food Chemicals Codex, U.S. Pharmacopoeia, and Reagent Grade Chemicals.  Special devices, refractometers, are used to measure salinity.

Common salt or sodium chloride is considered by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration as safe for its intended use. This GRAS (generally recognized as safe) classification, and the universal use of sodium chloride since antiquity, affirms its safety. The Merck Index refers to sodium chloride as “(n)ot generally considered poisonous.” Many substances in everyday use can be toxic in high concentrations, even water. reports Toxic levels of sodium chloride are reported as:

Oral toxicity (The Registry of Toxic Effects of Chemical Substances, 1986):

Human; TDLo: 12,357 mg/kg/23 D-C

Mouse; LD50: 4,000 mg/kg

Rat; LD50: 3,000 mg/kg

Rabbit; LDLo: 8,000 mg/kg

Acute aquatic toxicity (U.S. EPA, Ambient Water Quality Criteria for Chloride, 1988):

Rana Breviceps (frog); No observed effect concentration (NOEC): 400 mg/L.
Daphnia pulex 48-hour LC50 or EC50: 1,470 mg/L
Daphnia magna (water flea); 48 hour EC50: 3,310 mg/L
Myriophyllum spicatum (water milfoil); Phytotoxicity (EC50 for growth): 5,962 mg/L
Pimephales promealas (fathead minnow); 69-hour LC50: 7,650 mg/L
Lepomis macrochirus (Bluegill) LC50 or EC50: 7,846 mg/L
Anguilla rostrata (American eel) 48-hour LC50 or EC 50: 13,085 mg/L

EPA says that the chlorides of calcium, magnesium and potassium are generally more toxic to fresh water species than sodium chloride.  Some Antarctic species depend on salt to protect them against the cold.

Sodium and chloride occur naturally in soils and waters, and are added by residential, commercial and industrial activity. Aquatic organisms and vegetation, including crops and roadside grasses, shrubs and trees, tolerate various concentrations of sodium and chloride. The following classification is used by the U.S. Department of Agriculture to indicate the degree of hazard of saline soils to food crops. It is based on conductivity and salinity hazard. (Conductivity can be converted to approximate mg/L dissolved solids).

USDA Salinity hazard ratings:

Low: 70 – 175 mg/l
Medium: 176 – 525 mg/l
High: 526 – 1,575 mg/l
Very high: more than 1,575 mg/l

A number of studies, including a 1992 Transportation Research Board Special Report about deicing salt, confirm that the environmental effects of elevated chloride levels are highly site specific. Other factors that affect the degree of salinity hazard are: soil

Above Ground Pools FAQs

How Do I? – Above Ground Pool FAQs

 

Everyone Wants to Know…How do I ….
A complete collection of Frequently Asked Questions Above Above Ground Pools

 

How Do I? - Above Ground Pool FAQs  How do install a round above ground pool? -Video
   
How Do I? - Above Ground Pool FAQs  How do I install an oval above ground pool with side braces? -Video
   
How do I install an oval above ground pool without braces? -Video
   

 

What is the Difference Between An Above Ground Pool With Or Without Braces?
   
How Do I Install a Liner?  – Step By Step
   
  How do I install a portable pool? -Slide Shows and Videos
   
Ground Prep How do I prepare the ground for an above ground pool
   
Deep End Can I have a pool with a deep end?
   
Can I put the pool in the ground?
   
Complete Above Ground Pool Care How Do I Start Up My Pool
   
Complete Above Ground Pool Care How Do I Prime My Pump

What is the Power Usage Of A Typical Pump and Filter?
   
Routine Pool Care How Do I Take Care Of My Above Ground Pool?
   
Calculating Pool Volume How Do I Calculate The Gallons in my Above Ground Pool?
   
  How Do I Winterize My Above Ground Pools
   
algae What is Algae?

How Do I Prevent Algae From Growing in my above ground pool?

How Do I Treat Algae Now That I Have It
   
Pool Decks Can You Tell Me More About Decks?
   
   

 

See Our Complete Above Ground Pool Information Page

Above Ground Pool Safety Virginia Graham Baker Law

Don’t get trapped in a bottom drain pool. All of our pools are drained by a top skimmer, protected by basket grates.

Again, Better than Tuff, Better than Splash

 

 

Are you a pool owner and  operator not familiar with the new Virginia Graeme Baker law?

Do you know about the law but just aren’t sure how it pertains to you?

 


 

Click here for The Virginia Graeme Baker Law Details

Wellness Pools

Your Pool Sanctuary

 the modern wellness pool

A Life In Balance….

Comes with:

  • Pump and Filter
  • Ladder
  • Electric Heater (110v or 220v)
  • Ionizer (98% less chemicals)
  • Skimmer
  • Bottom Pad

Your own personal get away

5.5ft x 9.5ft x 52in Deep

3499.99

 

…. is our water therapy pool to release emotions and understand your body. Through silver copper ion water treatment and sanitization and penetrating electric heat you can activate your body wellness process

  • Reduce anxiety
  • Increase wellness
  • For meditation and mindfulness
  • Access solutions for Post-op Healing and other health issues.
  • Copper Silver Ion technology reduces the chemical impact by 98%
  • Salt Impregnated Water for increased magnesium levels. More Information

 

Master your mind for health, happiness, and high performance. Release stress and outgrow negative thinking patterns that cause stress.  Improve mental clarity, self esteem, and relationships while reducing anxiety, depression, pain, insomnia, hypertension, and other stress related conditions.

Many of us are deficient in magnesium and simply soaking in our salt impregnated wellness pool you can increase your levels of this important element.  Magnesium, is better absorbed by soaking than by ingestion. Studies have shown that increased magnesium levels through soaking in water impregnated with Epsom salts*:

  • Improved Heart Circulation

  • Improved Nerve Function

  • Improved Oxygen

  • Improved Absorption of Nutrients

  • Prevention or Easing Migraine Headaches

  • Improved Formation of Brain and Joint tissues

 

*Information from the Epsom salts website

Sanctuary for the stress of the modern world awaits you in your own wellness pool

 

Above Ground Pools Shipping Domestic

Domestic Shipping Charges

Above Ground Pools and Portable Pool Kits – Standard Kits 

Contiguous 48 United States  : Between $180.00 – $300.00  (Depending On Pool Size)

Hawaii, Alaska  Puerto Rico :  Add $350.00

Outlying Territories :  Add $550.00

Canada : Add $150.00

Parcel Shipments (supplies and small pools) greater than 50 lbs

Contiguous 48 United States  :  $120.00

Hawaii, Alaska  Puerto Rico :  $300.00

Outlying Territories : $350.00

Parcel Shipments (supplies and small pools) greater than 25 lbs  and less than 50lbs

Contiguous 48 United States  :  $60.00

Hawaii, Alaska  Puerto Rico :  $150.00

Outlying Territories : $200.00

Parcel Shipments (supplies and small pools) less than 25 lbs 

Contiguous 48 United States  :  $25.00

Hawaii, Alaska  Puerto Rico :  $750.00

Outlying Territories : $100.00

Delivery Time Estimates Pools

Contiguous 48 United States  :  7-10 days excluding special order or custom pools

Hawaii, Alaska  Puerto Rico :  21 Days

Outlying Territories : 30 Days

Delivery Time Estimates Parcels

Contiguous 48 United States  :  3-5 Days

Hawaii, Alaska  Puerto Rico :  5-7 days

Outlying Territories : 7- 14days

Specialty and Custom Made Pools

Due to the varying sizes and equipment with these pools shipping costs require specific quotes

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Above Ground Pool Construction Materials

Easy Set Pools And Frame Set Pools

4

 The Easy Set Pool is Made of a High Quality Durable Latex.

The Frameset Is Constructed From Heavy Duty PVC Pipe Frame and Rubberized Canvas Liner. Some Frame Set pools have metal alloy poles

 

The Portable Pool Style

5 The Portable Pools are Made with Heavy Duty Aluminum and Alloy Poles with Liners Of Materials that are Similar to The Material Used For Bullet Proof Vests. The Quick Pool and Quick Rectangle Pools are made from Kreylor. The Deep Quick Pool is Made from a Similar but more Malleable Material that is not subject to creasing .

 

Steel Sided Pools

  big_yorkshire Steel Sided Pools are Constructed with a Hot Dipped Galvanized Steel With Many Coatings. Liquid Vinyl is a Popularly used one to prevent Rust through (see illustrations below from one of our manufacturers) Most are also Coated with a Protective coating to Increase a Long Life time. Top Rails and Side Rails can Vary In Size From 1 Inch to 9 Inches and Can Be constructed of Either High Impact Plastic Or Corrosive Proof Metal. The Best also are self Draining. The Liners can Vary From 10 mil to 20 mil Vinyl

poolconst1 poolconst2

Above Ground Pools ABC’s

Arthurs Guide to Every Thing Above Ground Pools

(Thank you for your patience, there are a lot of pictures to Load it may take a minute or two)

A. What is an Above Ground Pool.

1 An In Ground Pool is a built in Costing 10’s of thousands of Dollars. It can never be changed, Never be Moved and it is there forever. >

An Above Ground Pool Costs Much less, From a couple of Hundred Dollars to a Few Thousands and Lasts with Care for Decades. When you want to replace, upgrade or move your pool it is easily done.

2

B. What Kind of Above Ground Pools are there.

There are Three Basic Styles of Above Ground Pools. Permanent, Portable and Inflatable. We Sell All types here at Arthurs Pools

3a

Permanent

Permanent pools are built to last, and will last decades with the right care.

3

This is a Portable Pool, It Sets up in Minutes and is steady and Solid, You can leave it up all Summer and then when the swim Season is over, disconnect the metal Supports and Roll up the liner and store it easily till next year.

4

This is an Inflatable pool. The upper ring is inflated with Air then it rises as the pool is filled. This is an affordable Option for Families on a Budget who want something more than a wading pool.

C. How Are Pools Installed?

While The Portable and inflatible pools will set up any where, the Permanent Pools require a little more set-up 6

1 Select An Area and Prepare the Ground

7

2 When the Ground is Prepared then Come the Supports and Foundation

8

3 The walls then are Constructed without the top rails and the ground is Moistened t. Now would be the time to add pool Coving and Happy Bottom

9

4 Now Its Time to Install the Liner. It must be laid out evenly with no wrinkles, the warmth of the sun helps relax the liner into Place.

This Pool is equipped with an expandable Liner

 

10

Then the Rails are put in place and the fun begins!

 

D How Can My Pool Be made to be More Attractive?

11

Surround Your Pool with a deck.

12

Surround your Pool With Florals

13

Put you Above Ground Pool In Ground and build a deck.

134

Use Decorative Woodwork to spice up a deck.

Dig The Buttresses into the Ground

17

 

 

Easy Set Bumper Pool

Brand New Pool – Easy Set Bumper Pool

Easy to set up and take down, great for a new business idea!

IndexBumperPools

 

20ft x 40ft x24in  Easy Set Bumper Pools

 

$2999.99  For the Pool

$599.99 Optional Fun Float Package of 12 Inflatables  

bumperballpool

 

  • Great For Portable Water Park Projects
  • Sets up in minutes, just inflate the top ring and fill
  • Takes Down Just as fast
  • Durable Construction
  • Fits In an SUV
  • Comes With Pump

 Call Us to pre-order these pools today

1-818-235-1048

 

Easy Three Step Process For Using Portable Pool Clamps

Easy Three Step Process For Using Portable Pool Clamps

 

 
3 Step Process
 
1  Using self taping screws of sufficient length  drive two screws throught the clamp
 clamp3  
 
Step 2 Remove the Threaded nipple from the top of the unit
 
 
 clamp2
 
Step 3 Screw the  Holder Unit the clamp and then insert the unit 
 
clamp1
 

 

Above ground pool smell after draining

Above ground pool smell after draining?

I drained my 48″ Intex above ground pool. The pool has an awful 
“sewer” smell. Can anyone recommend a cleaner that would work to remove this smell. I don’t want to store it all winter until I get this problem resolved.

A. What to do.

The ground has shifted under my above ground pool


Q. The ground has shifted under my above ground pool and

…the pool is tilted, I am afraid it might burst

A. What to do…

Pinhole Rust Spots On Above Ground Pools

Pinhole Rust Spots On Above Ground Pools

Q. After 15 years I  had little holes appear about a foot off the ground on my steel walled pool

and it is leaking all over the pool at that height. I have a sand base.

A. What Happened?

Gopher Chewed Above Ground Pools

Gopher Chewed Above Ground Pools

 

I have lost two liners to gophers

I live in a densely populated gopher area and the little beasties burrow under my pool and then up.  I don’t know if they chew the liner, or if the liner just stretches into their holes and pops.  What do I do?

A. What to do.

Freezing Above Ground Pools

Freezing Above Ground Pools

Q. Can I stop my above ground pool from collapsing or at least limit the damage?

I just checked my pool and the pillow has popped and the snow/ice build up was bringing some of the sides in. I released the cover to help with the pressure. The water inside is frozen. One panel wall is bent alittle and the liner is out, another panel has released itself from the top rail, it’s about two panels down from the first one. Is there anything I can do to save it from collapsing before I can get a pool guy out? Thanks.

A. What to do..

My Portable Pool as begun to discolor

My Portable Pool as begun to discolor..

…and grow scaly on the top of the to rail….what’s going on?

A. The Process is called…

Above Ground Pools With Buttresses And Without Buttresses

Buttressless Pools And Buttressed Pools

Buttressless Pools

Buttressless and Buttressed Pools

The above pool is a buttressless pool with a narrower profile it takes up less space. Below you can see the ‘under pool” design

 

 

supports

 

Buttressless Foundation

underpins Click On the Picture To See an Expanded View of a Buttressless System

Butressed Pool

Buttressless and Buttressed Pools

This Pool is Buttressed and  takes up a little more space than the buttressless pool. Below you can see the design of the support buttresses.

Butresses

Buttress Foundation

 

Layout

This chart shows the advantage of the buttressless system when it comes to space saving.

 

Above Ground Pool Safety Chemicals

Above Ground Pool Safety Chemicals

Pool Chemical Safety Rules
Pool chemicals must be handled with great care. Certain precautions must be taken. Fire, explosion, or release of gas can result from misuse.  Read and follow the dosages, directions and precautionary statements on each product label. Keep all pool products away from children.

Pool Chemical Handling Guide

 » Keep all chemicals out of the reach of children and pets.
 » Read first aid procedures print on the label before using the product. If the
    product gets on your skin, in your eyes, is swallowed, or is inhaled, follow the
    correct procedure from the product label.
 » Open all pool chemical containers carefully.
 » Never mix pool chemicals with any other substance.
 » Never mix different types of pool chemicals. Add each chemical separately.
 » Only add a pool chemical to the water. Never add water to chemicals.
 » Use separate, clean utensils and measuring cups for each pool chemical.
 » Use the exact quantities specified on the product label.
 » Immediately wash your hands after handling any pool chemical.

Pool Chemical Storage Guide

 » Carefully seal each container tightly after use.
 » Store pool chemicals in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area under cover.
 » Keep pool chemicals away from heat or open flame.
 » Keep pool chemicals away from moisture, garbage, dirt, chemicals (including
    other pool chemicals), pool chlorinating compounds, household products,
    cyanuric acid pool stabilizers, soap products, paint products, solvents, acids,
    vinegar, beverages, oils, pine oil, dirty rags, or any other foreign matter.
 » Keep pool chemicals away from your lawn, shrubs and trees.
 » Keep pool chemicals locked or secured to keep children from accessing them.

Pool Chemical Container Disposal Checklist

 » Wash empty pool chemical containers before disposing of them.
 » Dispose of all empty chemical containers according to the label directions on that
    product.
 » Call 1-800-253-9140 for assistance in disposing of chemicals. 
 » DO NOT throw chemicals in the trash.

 » If a spill occurs, this requires emergency handling if there is any sign of activity
    such as a bulging container, bubbling, hissing, gassing, smoking, or fire.

Pool Chemical Container Disposal Checklist

 » Thoroughly rinse empty pool chemical containers before disposing of them; triple
    rinsing is  recommended.

 » Dispose of all empty containers according to the label directions on that product.
 » Call 1-800-253-9140 for assistance in disposing of chemicals; DO NOT throw away
    in trash.

Emergency Assistance Numbers

 
 » A spill requires emergency handling if there is any sign of activity such as a
    bulging container, bubbling, hissing, gassing, smoking or fire.  Call the emergency
    number if any of your pool chemicals spill.

 

Above Ground Pool Safety Summertime

Above Ground Pool Safety Summertime

Summer Safety
spacer
dividerFollowing is a comprehensive list of important safety tips from the American Academy of Pediatrics to help keep your summer fun and safe for the whole family. It might be helpful to print these out and keep them handy.

FUN IN THE SUN

For Older Children

» The first, and best, line of defense against the sun is covering up. Wear a hat with a three-inch
brim or a bill facing forward, sunglasses (look for sunglasses that block 99-100% of Ultraviolet rays),
and cotton clothing with a tight weave.
» Stay in the shade whenever possible, and avoid sun exposure during the peak intensity hours –
between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. The risk of tanning and burning also increases at higher
altitude.
» Sunscreen with an SPF (sun protection factor) of 15 should be effective for most people. Be sure
to apply enough sunscreen – about one ounce per sitting for a young adult.
» Reapply sunscreen every two hours, or after swimming or sweating.
» Some self-tanning products contain sunscreen, but others don’t, so read the labels carefully. In
addition, tanning oils or baby oil may make skin look shiny and soft, but they provide no protection
from the sun.
For Young Children
» Babies under 6 months of age should be kept out of the direct sunlight. Move your baby to the
shade or under a tree, umbrella, or the stroller canopy.
» Dress babies in lightweight clothing that covers the arms and legs and use brimmed hats.
» Apply sunscreen at least 30 minutes before going outside, and use sunscreen even on cloudy
days. The sun protection factor (SPF) should be at least 15.

POOL SAFETY
» Never leave children alone in or near the pool, even for a moment.
» Make sure adults are trained in life-saving techniques and CPR so they can rescue a child if
necessary.
» Surround your pool on all four sides with a sturdy five-foot fence.
» Make sure the gates self-close and self-latch at a height children can’t reach.
» Keep rescue equipment (a shepherd’s hook – a long pole with a hook on the end – and life
preserver) and a portable telephone near the pool.

» Avoid inflatable swimming aids such as “floaties.” They are not a substitute for approved life vests
and can give children a false sense of security.
» Children are not developmentally ready for swim lessons until after their fourth birthday. Swim
programs for children under 4 should not be seen as a way to decrease the risk of drowning.
» Whenever infants or toddlers are in or around water, an adult should be within arm’s length,
providing “touch supervision.”

BUG SAFETY
» Don’t use scented soaps, perfumes or hair sprays on your child.
» Repellents appropriate for use on children should contain no more than 10 percent DEET because
the chemical, which is absorbed through the skin, can cause harm. The concentration of DEET
varies significantly from product to product, so read the label of any product you purchase.
» Avoid areas where insects nest or congregate, such as stagnant pools of water, uncovered foods
and gardens where flowers are in bloom.
» Avoid dressing your child in clothing with bright colors or flowery prints.
» To remove a visible stinger from skin, gently scrape it off horizontally with a credit card or your
fingernail. You can also remove a stinger by pinching it out with a pair of tweezers or your fingers.

PLAYGROUND SAFETY
» Carefully maintain all equipment.
» Swings should be made of soft materials such as rubber, plastic or canvas.
» Make sure children cannot reach any moving parts that might pinch or trap any body part.
» Make sure metal slides are cool to prevent children’s legs from getting burned.
» Even in supervised training programs, the use of trampolines for children younger than 6 years of
age should be prohibited.

SUMMER CAMP
» All camps should have written health policies and protocols that have been approved by a
physician with a particular knowledge of children’s health, preferably a pediatrician.
» All camps should be in compliance with immunization schedules recommended by the AAP and as
required by state and local health departments.
» All campers should be required to have a complete health evaluation signed within the past year
by a licensed health care professional, preferably a pediatrician, before the first day of residential
camp. Campers with clinically significant medical histories with implications for ongoing care (e.g.,
asthma, surgery, seizures, diabetes, or orthopedic injuries) should have had an examination within
the previous 6 months.
» Camp authorities should be responsible for describing to the parents the activities, programs and
health services available at the camp. Parents should be aware of the medical permission
requirements at the time of registration.
» By the first day of camp, parents or guardians are also responsible for providing information to
camp authorities about any current health problems and all current medications.
» Camp records should include emergency contacts for all children. In addition, if a chronic
condition exists (e.g., diabetes), the child’s physician should be identified by name, telephone
number, and fax number, and the date of the last health care visit should be noted.

TRAVEL SAFETY
» Buckle up car seats and seat belts.
» Keep supplies with you, such as snacks, water, a first aid kit and any medicines your child takes.
» Always use a car seat, starting with your baby’s first ride home from the hospital. Help your child
form a lifelong habit of buckling up.
» Read the manufacturer’s instructions and always keep them with the car seat. Read your vehicle
owner’s manual for more information on how to install the car seat.
» Put your child in the back seat. It is the safest place in the car because it is farthest away from a
head-on crash (the most common type of crash).
» The harness system holds your child in the car seat and the seat belts hold the seat in the car.
Attach both snugly to protect your child.
» Children in rear-facing car seats should never be placed in a front seat equipped with an air bag.
» Children traveling alone to visit relatives or attend summer camp should have a copy of their
medical information with them at all times.

DOG BITES
» If you are getting a pet as a companion for your child, wait until your child is mature enough to
handle and care for the animal – usually around age 5 or 6.
» Never leave your infant or young child alone with any dog.
» Teach your child some basic safety precautions for dealing with dogs outside your home, such as
not surprising or scaring a dog or never approaching an unfamiliar dog.
» Instruct your child to stand still if approached or chased by a strange dog. Tell your child not to
run, kick or make threatening gestures. Your child should face the dog and back away slowly
until he or she is out of reach.
» Contact your pediatrician whenever your child receives an animal bite that breaks the skin, no
atter how minor the injury appears. The doctor will need to check whether your child has been
adequately immunized against tetanus.

Above Ground Pool Safety Behavioral

Above Ground Pool Safety Behavioral

 

NO DIVING

  • Never dive, flip or jump into this above ground swimming pool. It is too shallow for safe diving. Ladders, decks, handrails and top ledges (or anything else) are not to be used for diving. You can break your neck!
  • Most serious permanent injuries, paralysis or deaths occur when dives are made from pool decks. Please read your four pages “Mandatory Reading” Booklet supplied with this pool before you purchase or fabricate a deck for your pool.

 

NO ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES

  • Never use your swimming pool if you have been drinking alcoholic beverages or taking medications or drugs. Shock, unconsciousness, permanent injury or drowning could result. Don’t drink and dive!

KEEP WATER CLEAN

  • Always keep your pool water clean so that the bottom is visible at all times. Individuals must be able to see that the water is too shallow for diving, and must be able to see small children in the pool!

 

NO SWIMMING AFTER DARK

  • Never use your swimming pool after dark or when you cannot see the shallow depth of the water or the safety decals or signs. If you ignore this, you have the sole responsibility for providing adequate lighting. Because installation conditions vary, you must consult with a licensed electrical contractor or your power company to provide adequate lighting. You must also comply with all national and local electric codes.
  • Never cut holes in your pool wall to install lights or anything else unless the hole locations are factory installed. Failure to obey this warning could cause structural damage to the pool wall, violently releasing large bodies of water. Wall structural failures may cause serious injury, electrocution or property damage.

 

NO SLIDES OR BOARDS

  • Never install a slide or diving board on your above ground pool.

NO HORSEPLAY

  • Never allow horseplay in or around the pool.

DON’T STAND ON TOP LEDGES

  • Do not stand, sit or step on pool top ledge. These prohibited activities may break the ledge or wall of the pool.

POST WARNING SIGNS

  • Always post your “Warning” signs and/or decals in plain sight around your above ground pool. Always insist that first time users and children understand and obey all safety instructions.

 

 Above Ground Pool Safety Behavioral

Above Ground Pool Safety Maintenance

Above Ground Pool Safety Maintenance

CHECK FOR POOL DAMAGE AND WEAR

  • Periodically check your pool and ladder components for damage and wear. Be sure all screws are in place. Replace all damaged or worn components and tighten all screws before you use the pool, deck or ladders.

 

DO NOT MODIFY POOL

  • Never modify the pool or accessories, or remove or drill holes in the pool, deck or ladder components unless instructed.

 

SHARP EDGES

  • There is a possibility that a sharp edge may have been formed on a metal part during the manufacturing process. Check all pool, filter, ladder or deck parts for sharpness. In the event that you find a sharp edge on a metal part, please take steps to remove it with sandpaper or a file or return it for replacement.

 

REPLACMENT PARTS

  • Always use Original Equipment Manufactured (OEM) parts for your replacement requirements.

KEEP WATER CLEAN

  • Always keep your pool water clean so that the bottom is visible at all times. Individuals must be able to see that the water is too shallow for diving, and must be able to see small children in the pool!

INSTALL POOL ABOVEGROUND

  • Never install your above ground swimming pool below the ground surface. This pool must be installed on the ground surface only. There should be a flat, three (3) foot area (minimum) around the outside perimeter of your pool. This is for the continued enjoyment of your pool.

 

Above Ground Pool Equipment Safety

Above Ground Pool Equipment Safety

FENCE SAFETY

  • For your added safety we urge you to install around the pool an additional four (4) foot tall (aboveground level) fence, wall or enclosure that is made of durable material. All gates and entries must be self-closing and self-latching and equipped with hardware for permanent locking. All latches must be installed four (4) feet above the ground surface and make inaccessible to toddlers from outside. If a building is part of the barrier, all doors, windows and patio gates that could provide access to the pool must be self-closing, self-latching with permanent locks so that your pool cannot be entered by toddlers. Check all local and state building codes to insure your installation complies with all requirements.

WINTER COVER SAFETY

  • If you cover your pool with a winter cover and do not purchase if from us, be sure the product meets the CPSC Standard ES13. It must be equipped with a positive tamper-proof locking retainer cable that positions the edge of the cover around the side of the pool wall and retains it securely in place. Never allow anyone, especially small children, to walk or play on pool cover. Serious injury or drowning could result.

ELECTRICAL HAZARD

  • Never attempt to contact or service electrical equipment, including your filter, when your body and/or the ground is wet. Electrocution or permanent injury due to high voltage (120V AC) could result.
  • To avoid electrocution hazard, never use an electrical power source for any electrical equipment or your filter unless it is protected by a Class A (5 Miliampere Trip) Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) in accordance with the National Electrical Code Section 680.

 

Supervising Children in Above Ground Pools

 

Supervising Children in Above Ground Pools

WATCH CHILDREN – PREVENT DROWNING
  • Always watch and supervise children playing in or around pool to prevent drowning or injury.  Never allow children or adults to climb on the outside structure of the above ground pool.  Do not place filters, pumps, tables, chairs or other objects near the pool.  Children may use these to enter the pool and drown. Position your filtration system a safe distance from the pool to prevent young children from using the filter as a means of access to the pool.

FENCE SAFETY

  • For your added safety we urge you to install around the pool an additional four (4) foot tall (aboveground level) fence, wall or enclosure that is made of durable material. All gates and entries must be self-closing and self-latching and equipped with hardware for permanent locking. All latches must be installed four (4) feet above the ground surface and make inaccessible to toddlers from outside. If a building is part of the barrier, all doors, windows and patio gates that could provide access to the pool must be self-closing, self-latching with permanent locks so that your pool cannot be entered by toddlers. Check all local and state building codes to insure your installation complies with all requirements.

 

These Safety Instructions require pool users to exercise common sense. Always use common sense in your use of this product in order to avoid risks associated with electricity and water, which can result in paralysis from diving, drowning or electrocution.

 

CHILD DROWNING ALERT

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission reports that drowning and near drowning of children, young adults and adults account for a substantial percentage of the risk of using this pool product. Children under the age of 5 years old are the highest risk. Please watch your children!

 

 

Above Ground Pool Heater Information

 

Above Ground Pool Heater Information

The Heater

 

Most pool owners who have heaters agree that it is a vital factor in expanding their pool’s use. Heaters can extend your swimming opportunities for more hours in the day and more months of the year, even year-round in some areas of the country.

 

Look at a few facts first. Pool water of 78oF is what most people prefer for swimming. The sun alone can help water achieve that temperature, but unless you live in a very warm climate. Your pool will never exceed the average air temperature. Therefore, the assistance of a heater might be needed to keep water constantly at 78oF in most climate zones. Your heating options are gas, oil, electricity or solar. Certain sources are more effective and less costly in certain areas of the country. Check with the experts for the most efficient energy source in your area.

 

Size is another consideration. Don’t select a smaller heater on the initial cost alone. A larger heater may actually be more economical because a smaller heater will have to work longer and harder to heat the same size pool.

 

How do you determine the correct gas pool heater BTU’s for above ground pools?

How do you determine the correct gas pool heater BTU’s for  above ground pools?

The goal is to have a heater that has enough capacity to heat the pool to your desired level in a reasonable amount of time. Maintaining that temperature is a lot easier once the pool is up to temp.

First, the capacity of most pool heaters are rated in BTU’s or British Thermal Units. One BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water, one degree F. And since there are 8.33 gallons of water per pound, it takes 8.33 BTU’s to raise one gallon of water, one degree F.

Now let’s calculate:

1. Determine the number of gallons in your pool (G).

2. Determine the amount in temperature that you want to raise the pool temp (the easiest way to figure this is to use the air temp as the minimum and the desired pool temp as the maximum) (Delta T).

3. Calculate the number of BTU’s needed (BTU) per gallon of water by multiplying step 2 x 8.33. Multiply this number times the gallons of water in your pool (G). This is the number of BTU’s to raise your pool temp from the minimum to desired temp.

4. Determine how FAST you want to be able to go from the minimum temp to the desired temp (in hours) (H).

5. Divide the total number of BTU’s from step 3 by the hours in step 4 to yield the BTU’S per hour that your heater will need to deliver.

6. Multiply Step 5 by a error factor of 20% and add to step 5. This is approximately the size of heater that you will need.

Example:

1. Assume pool volume, G = 10,000 gallons 2. Assume 80F desired pool temp and 60F air temp. Delta T = 80 – 60 = 20F 3. BTU’s per gallon x Delta T: 8.33 x 20 = 166.6 BTU’s per gallon. BTU/Gal x Gallons (G): 166.6 x 10,000 gal = 1,666,000 Total BTU’s. (Wow, seems like a lot!) 4. Assume I want to be able to warm the pool in two days of continuous operation = 48 hours. 5. Total BTUs / Hours: 1,666,000 / 48 = 34,708 BTU’s per hour. 6. (BTU/Hr x 20%) + BTU/Hr: 34,708 x 0.20 = 6,941 BTU’s 6,941 + 34,708 = 41,649 BTU’s per hour.

Now, most pool heaters come in a round number of BTU’s like 50,000, 100,000, 150,000, etc. You should select the closest size to your needs (usually on the higher side is best).

Hence, for this example, a 50,000 BTU heater would be more than adequate.

Obviously, you could also work these calculations backward to determine what Delta T you could handle given a certain size heater and pool size.

 

When were the first above ground pools available to the public

 

Question: When were the first above ground pools available to the public?

The first above ground pool was made with galvanized steel pipe by doughboy. The year was 1946 and was one of MANY products that were born in the post WWII affluence America enjoyed. Before that, I guess they used water troughs. The Above Ground Pool did not become popular until the doughboy company innovated flat top ledges and the pool lost it’s “Tank” appearance and became a pool. In all the years between then and now, there have been advances in materials but the idea of a steel walled pool with a vinyl liner remains one of the most popular choices for above ground pools today.

How Big Are Olympic Size Above Ground Pools

How Big Are Olympic Size Above Ground Pools

The Dimensions of an Olympic Size Swimming Pool is approximately 164ft x 82ft and 6ft deep. 

Surface area = 13,454.72 sq ft Volume  = 88,263 cu ft = 660,253.09 gallons of water

That’s about 5,511,556 lbs (2755.8 tons) of water.

This size can be custom made in a portable pool!  See the Page of the Odyssey Lap Pool Page

 

We Now Sell Olympic Size Pools!

Olympic Size Above Ground Pools

Click Here for Our Olympic Size Pools

Why are some Above Ground Pools Priced Higher?

Why are some Above Ground Pools Priced Higher?

Many of our customers ask, ” Why are your prices on Above Ground Pools so much lower than other stores or websites?”

Well, we can’t tell you why our competition prices are so high, but we can tell you why ours are so low. First our buyers have access to manufacturer’s over production on various models. They are looking to sell their over stock, and we are looking to find the lowest price for you. The purchases are made earlier in the year and  we pay cash, the manufacturers lower the price even more.

Sometimes the prices are “kept” high by the manufacturers. There are a few pool manufacturers that  we do not deal with anymore, because they would not allow us to sell their pools, if we did not sell them at their artificially high retail prices. Arthur’s is dedicated to selling pools to you at fair and no nonsense prices. We don’t factor in shipping to our prices and then say “free shipping” and we don’t sell pools that are marked up beyond a decent amount.

Also some pool manufacturers set up “exclusive dealerships” with one pool retailer in a county or state. In order to buy this pool you have to go to his store, on his time and pay his price which is usually double or triple the normal price. ( He has to cover all that overhead.) What isn’t planned for in this “sewn up” dealership scenario is the independent internet pool retailer, like Arthur’s.

Typically this scenario plays out like this.

  • A Pool Costs the exclusive dealer  $1000.00

  • The Exclusive Dealer marks it up to $5000.00 (Hey, you want his pool right? You can’t get it anywhere else…or can you?)

  • The sales man who smiled while he sold it to you pockets $2000.00 In commission(does he smile when you need help later on?)

  • The Dealer takes home $2000.00

  • and you take home a pool we would have sold you for $1500.00 (or less) Pool with a wallet that is $5000.00 lighter.

At Arthur’s it works something like this:

  • Our Buyers purchase the $1000.00 Pool for $500.00 (or less)

  • We take our usual markup (we do have to stay in business)

  • And you buy the pool and take it home for well under $1500.00 and have received value for value.

  • Oh, by the way you take home 60+ years of Arthur’s Expertise and Experience

Just in case you ever wondered.

 Why are some Above Ground Pools Priced Higher?

Above Ground Pool Chemicals Types

Above Ground Pool Chemicals Types

  1. WHAT POOL CHEMICALS DO I NEED?
  2. Chlorine either in the form of liquid, dry, or stable dry.
  3. Acid, either in the form of liquid (muriatic acid), or dry (sodium bisulphate).
  4. Algaecide, either in the form of liquid or dry granular or tablet. (if chlorine and acid are used properly, this product may not be necessary).
  5. Soda ash, either in granular or block form (if too much acid is used).

 

  1. TYPES OF CHEMICALS
  2. Liquid Chlorine (SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE). This form of chlorine is made in a concentrated from especially for pool use. It contains between 10% and 16% available chlorine. Liquid chlorine may be poured directly into the pool but it should be distributed over as wide an area of the pool as is practical. Avoid contact of liquid chlorine with clothes and delicate tissue.
  3. Dry Chlorine (CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE) This type of chlorine is available in either granular or tablet forms. It usually contains 70% available chlorine. The granular form dissolves readily while the tablets usually take several hours. Calcium hypochlorite contains an insoluble ingredient that leaves a residue in the pool. The granular and tablet form should be introduced in a floating chlorine dispenser.

A.     CHLORINE

 

Dry Stable Chlorine (SODIUM OR POTASSIUM DICHLORO-ISOCYANURATE OR TRICHLORO-S-TRIAZINE TRIONE). This type of chlorine is available in both granular and tablet form. Its principle advantage is that it contains a stabilizing factor that holds the chlorine for extended periods thus providing prolonged disinfecting activity. No insoluble residue is left when the material dissolves. Another advantage is that there is little or no addition of alkalinity to the water when this type of chlorine is used as compared to sodium hypochlorite and calcium hypochlorite.

B.     ACID

 

  1. Liquid Acid (MURIATIC). This product is quite strong and must be handled and used with great care. This material will burn skin, clothes and almost anything it comes in contact with. KEEP THIS PRODUCT AND ALL POOL CHEMICALS OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.

 

  1. Dry Acid (SODIUM DISULPHATE). This product is easier to store but it also must be used with care. When mixed with water this product is an effective pH reducer.

 

  1. ALGAECIDES. There are some chemicals that have been developed primarily to control and kill algae. Since there are many different such compounds, it is best when using them, to be guided by the manufacturer’s instructions. Generally chlorine must be used in conjunction with algaecides.

 

  1. CHLORINE STABILIZER (CONDITIONER). The use of this substance assists in the stabilization of chlorine to permit longer periods of protection. If stable chlorine is used as a regular source of chlorine the conditioner need be added only once with each filling of the pool. If other types of chlorine are used, the stabilizer should be replenished about every 3 to 4 weeks. See directions on stabilizer container regarding the amount to use.

 

  1. HOW MUCH CHLORINE IS REQUIRED? It is advisable to follow the directions of the manufacturer for his particular products. As a rule this will provide dosages that will produce satisfactory results for normal treatment. During the initial start up, it is advisable to double the dosages shown for the first few days.

TYPE OF CHLORINE

POOL CAPACITY IN GALLONS

1,000

2,500

5,000

7,500

10,000

12,500

15,000

Calcium Hypochlorite Granular

½ oz.

1 oz.

2 oz.

3 oz.

4 oz.

5 oz.

6 oz.

Calcium Hypochlorite Tablets

3

6

12

18

24

30

36

Sodium Hypochlorite 15% Solution

1-½ oz.

4 oz.

8 oz.

12 oz.

16 oz.

20 oz.

24 oz.

Sodium or Potassium dichloroisocyanurate or Trichloro-s-Triazinetrione*

¼ oz.

½ oz.

1 oz.

1- ½ oz.

2 oz.

2- ½ oz.

3 oz.

 

Due to stabilization action, test pool for chlorine before adding. If chlorine is   present in water reduce dosage proportionately.

           

   For effective control of bacteria and algae maintain a chlorine residual of 0.3 to 0.6 ppm. If stabilized chlorine is used, a residual of at least 1.0 ppm should be maintained.

 

  1. HOW MUCH STABLE CHLORINE IS REQUIRED? – The stabilizing effect does not take place at one with regular use of chlorinated cyanuric acid, unless a conditioner is used with the initial treatment. Without use of conditioner the dosage of stable chlorine will have to be increased to double the normal treatment for the first 3 or 4 weeks. Afterwards, the average pool will require a dosage of between 1 and 2 oz. per 10,000 gallons of water.

 

  1. HOW IS THE POOL CONDITIONED TO ELIMINATE THE STABILIZING WAITING PERIOD? – By adding 1 pound of conditioner (cyanuric acid) to the pool for every 3000 gallons a residual stabilizing concentration of 40 ppm will be established. This will normally achieve chlorine stabilization.

 

  1. WHY DO I NEED TO USE ACID IN MY POOL? – The addition of some chlorine raises the pH since liquid (sodium hypochloride) tablet or granular (calcium hypochloride) are basically alkaline, continued use increases the pH above 7.6. to counteract this an acid must be used. Sodium bisulphate or muriatic acid will reduce the alkalinity.

 

  1. HOW MUCH ADIC DO I USE? – There are acid demand test kits available at your pool store that will tell you exactly how much acid is required at any one time. Be cautious when adding acid to prevent contact with tissue or clothing. Never put more than one pint of muriatic or 1 lb. of sodium bisulphate into a pool at one time. Wait four (4) hours and test pH before adding more acid.
  2. WHY DO I NEED TO USE SODA ASH IN MY POOL? – The pH at times may drop lower than 7.2 by adding too much acid or from the presence of some foreign material in the water. Use soda ash to raise pH to safe level.

 

  1. DO I ADD CHEMICALS TO MY FILTER? – NO! Pool chemicals should not be added directly to filter or surface skimmer. Diatomaceous earth is the only item that should be added to skimmer of filter.

 

  1. HOW DO I ADD CHEMICALS TO THE POOL? – A predetermined amount should be selected and filter should be running. Caution. Protect your eyes, skin and clothing at all times. Do not mix different chemicals. Do not add different chemicals to pool at the same point.

 

  1. Liquid Chlorine – pour slowly into the water by walking around the pool. Place container as close to water as possible to avoid splashing.

 

  1. Dry Chlorine – Granular or Tablet – can be placed in a floating chlorine dispenser. Do not pour any un-dissolved powder into pool because this may cloud water, shorten filter cycle, or settle to bottom and stain the poor liner.

 

  1. Dry Stable Chlorine – Granular, powder or tablet should be placed in a floating dispenser

 

  1. Muriatic Acid – Dilute acid 10 to 1 or 20 to 1 with water in a plastic bucket and slowly pour solution into water while walking around pool.
  2. Sodium Bisulphate – dissolve in a gallon of water (use plastic bucket) and slowly pour diluted liquid into water while walking around pool. Acid normally will react and be completely neutralized in 30 minutes with good pool circulation.

 

  1. Soda Ash – pre-dissolve soda ash in water and slowly add solution to pool water.

 

  1. WHEN IS THE BEST TIME FOR CHLORINATION? – In the evening after the sun has gone down and the day’s swimming is over. High temperatures and sunlight tend to dissipate chlorine rapidly.

 

  1. WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO ADD ACID? – In the morning, however, one should test the water for chlorine residual and pH prior to the addition of any chemicals.
  2. WHEN SHOULD I TEST FOR CHLORINE RESIDUAL? – In the morning, before swimmers into the pool. If the bathing load has been heavy in the morning, an afternoon test is suggested to be sure the water is always properly chlorinated for healthful swimming.
  3. HOW DO I TEST FOR CHLORINE? – By using your pool test kit. This may either be in the form of single chlorine test set or a duplex test kit in which you can test for chlorine and pH. The chlorine test set, either OTO or DPD indicates the concentration of chlorine in the water by a simple color change of pool water sample which is compared to standard color codes. To be sure of the chlorine residual this test should be made daily.

 

  1. WHAT IS SUPERCLORINATION? – (SHOCK TREATMENT) – Continued low concentrations of chlorine tend to permit strains of organisms to develop which are more resistant to the normal concentration of chlorine. Because of this it is advisable to apply shock treatment, or superchlorination treatment, to control these organisms and also to burn out other accumulation of organic matter. This type of treatment calls for from five to ten times the normal dosage of chlorine once every two or three weeks.

 

  1. COMBINED CHLORINE – Common Problem – When chlorine becomes combined there are some indications which often appear:

 

  1. A Strong test of chlorine (this is a reading of chlorine in an unusable from).

 

  1. A strong odor of chlorine (not found when chlorine and pH are in balance).

 

  1. Swimmers complain of eye irritation (this is not a normal reaction of a bather to chlorine).

 

  1. Water tends to be cloudy or grayish.

To correct this condition (and almost all normal problems) one should:

  1. ADJUST pH (so that chlorine is available to perform its three (3) basic functions: to kill bacteria – to kill algae – to destroy organic matter in the water).

 

  1. SUPER-CHLORINATE OR SHOCK. With the adjusted pH, this super-chlorinization will drive off the unusable forms of chlorine which cannot be restored, and replace them with usable forms of chlorine (in a proper pH condition) which is now available to perform the three (3) basic functions which chlorine is intended to perform: to kill bacteria – to kill algae – to destroy organic matter.

 

Again, it is good practice to super-chlorinate once every two or three weeks.

Above Ground Pool Chemicals Types

Above Ground Pools Chemicals FAQ

Above Ground Pools Chemicals FAQ

  1. WHY DOES POOL WATER TURN GREEN? Because of algae growth. Algae may impart a greenish, reddish, or brownish color to the water. It also makes the bottom and sides of pool slimy. (Follow Step 3 below immediately).

 

  1. WHAT IS ALGAE? – A microscopic plant life that thrives and multiplies very rapidly in warm, unchlorinated water. Algae causes slimy patches and stains to develop on the bottom and sides of the pools.  There are many strains of algae, but the most common are the green, reddish-brown or black. An algae condition will reduce chlorine residual and greatly shorten filter cycles.

 

  1. HOW DO YOU REMOVE ALGAE FROM POOL? – By super-chlorination (referred to as shock treatment). This is done by adding three to five times the normal amount of chlorine recommended for the amount of water in your pool. This amount of chlorine will kill the algae and it will be removed by the filter and by vacuuming.

 

  1. WHAT IS HARD WATER? – Water that contains large amounts of calcium or magnesium is referred to as hard water.

 

  1. WHAT EFFECT DOES HARD WATER HAVE ON THE POOL? – The presence of calcium particularly can lead to the formation of scale (calcium carbonate), if certain factors in the water such as pH and total alkalinity are not controlled. The scale deposits itself on the filter grids, piping and on occasion on the pool inner surfaces. These deposits reduce filter efficiency and in extreme cases, the deposits on pool walls can scratch bather’s skin.

 

  1. WHAT IS “IRON WATER” AND HOW CAN IT BE CORRECTED? – The presence of iron in natural waters occurs at various locations throughout the country. When a pool is filled with water containing iron, a reaction takes place upon exposure to chlorine that turns the water brown. This discoloration is sediment of insoluble iron that will stain the pool and will cause clogging of the filter.
  2. HOW DO YOU REMOVE IRON FROM POOL WATER? – The pH must be between 7.2 and 7.6. Turn filter off, use alum powder at a rate of 1 pound per 3,000 gallons of water. Weigh amount of alum needed and place in porous bag and drag through the water until it dissolves. Let pool stand 24-36 hours. Set filter for vacuum to waste and attach vacuum and clean pool bottom. When ready to use pool, check pH because alum in water may lower pH below 7.2 which means soda ash should be added to the water.

 Above Ground Pools Chemicals FAQ

Comprehensive Chemical Guide For Above Ground Pools

Comprehensive Chemical Guide For Above Ground Pools

  1. WHAT POOL CHEMICALS DO I NEED?
  2. Chlorine either in the form of liquid, dry, or stable dry.
  3. Acid, either in the form of liquid (muriatic acid), or dry (sodium bisulphate).
  4. Algaecide, either in the form of liquid or dry granular or tablet. (if chlorine and acid are used properly, this product may not be necessary).
  5. Soda ash, either in granular or block form (if too much acid is used).

 

  1. TYPES OF CHEMICALS
  2. Liquid Chlorine (SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE). This form of chlorine is made in a concentrated from especially for pool use. It contains between 10% and 16% available chlorine. Liquid chlorine may be poured directly into the pool but it should be distributed over as wide an area of the pool as is practical. Avoid contact of liquid chlorine with clothes and delicate tissue.
  3. Dry Chlorine (CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE) This type of chlorine is available in either granular or tablet forms. It usually contains 70% available chlorine. The granular form dissolves readily while the tablets usually take several hours. Calcium hypochlorite contains an insoluble ingredient that leaves a residue in the pool. The granular and tablet form should be introduced in a floating chlorine dispenser.

A.     CHLORINE

 

Dry Stable Chlorine (SODIUM OR POTASSIUM DICHLORO-ISOCYANURATE OR TRICHLORO-S-TRIAZINE TRIONE). This type of chlorine is available in both granular and tablet form. Its principle advantage is that it contains a stabilizing factor that holds the chlorine for extended periods thus providing prolonged disinfecting activity. No insoluble residue is left when the material dissolves. Another advantage is that there is little or no addition of alkalinity to the water when this type of chlorine is used as compared to sodium hypochlorite and calcium hypochlorite.

B.     ACID

 

  1. Liquid Acid (MURIATIC). This product is quite strong and must be handled and used with great care. This material will burn skin, clothes and almost anything it comes in contact with. KEEP THIS PRODUCT AND ALL POOL CHEMICALS OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.

 

  1. Dry Acid (SODIUM DISULPHATE). This product is easier to store but it also must be used with care. When mixed with water this product is an effective pH reducer.

 

  1. ALGAECIDES. There are some chemicals that have been developed primarily to control and kill algae. Since there are many different such compounds, it is best when using them, to be guided by the manufacturer’s instructions. Generally chlorine must be used in conjunction with algaecides.

 

  1. CHLORINE STABILIZER (CONDITIONER). The use of this substance assists in the stabilization of chlorine to permit longer periods of protection. If stable chlorine is used as a regular source of chlorine the conditioner need be added only once with each filling of the pool. If other types of chlorine are used, the stabilizer should be replenished about every 3 to 4 weeks. See directions on stabilizer container regarding the amount to use.

 

  1. HOW MUCH CHLORINE IS REQUIRED? It is advisable to follow the directions of the manufacturer for his particular products. As a rule this will provide dosages that will produce satisfactory results for normal treatment. During the initial start up, it is advisable to double the dosages shown for the first few days.

TYPE OF CHLORINE

POOL CAPACITY IN GALLONS

1,000

2,500

5,000

7,500

10,000

12,500

15,000

Calcium Hypochlorite Granular

½ oz.

1 oz.

2 oz.

3 oz.

4 oz.

5 oz.

6 oz.

Calcium Hypochlorite Tablets

3

6

12

18

24

30

36

Sodium Hypochlorite 15% Solution

1-½ oz.

4 oz.

8 oz.

12 oz.

16 oz.

20 oz.

24 oz.

Sodium or Potassium dichloroisocyanurate or Trichloro-s-Triazinetrione*

¼ oz.

½ oz.

1 oz.

1- ½ oz.

2 oz.

2- ½ oz.

3 oz.

 

Due to stabilization action, test pool for chlorine before adding. If chlorine is   present in water reduce dosage proportionately.

           

   For effective control of bacteria and algae maintain a chlorine residual of 0.3 to 0.6 ppm. If stabilized chlorine is used, a residual of at least 1.0 ppm should be maintained.

 

  1. HOW MUCH STABLE CHLORINE IS REQUIRED? – The stabilizing effect does not take place at one with regular use of chlorinated cyanuric acid, unless a conditioner is used with the initial treatment. Without use of conditioner the dosage of stable chlorine will have to be increased to double the normal treatment for the first 3 or 4 weeks. Afterwards, the average pool will require a dosage of between 1 and 2 oz. per 10,000 gallons of water.

 

  1. HOW IS THE POOL CONDITIONED TO ELIMINATE THE STABILIZING WAITING PERIOD? – By adding 1 pound of conditioner (cyanuric acid) to the pool for every 3000 gallons a residual stabilizing concentration of 40 ppm will be established. This will normally achieve chlorine stabilization.

 

  1. WHY DO I NEED TO USE ACID IN MY POOL? – The addition of some chlorine raises the pH since liquid (sodium hypochloride) tablet or granular (calcium hypochloride) are basically alkaline, continued use increases the pH above 7.6. to counteract this an acid must be used. Sodium bisulphate or muriatic acid will reduce the alkalinity.

 

  1. HOW MUCH ADIC DO I USE? – There are acid demand test kits available at your pool store that will tell you exactly how much acid is required at any one time. Be cautious when adding acid to prevent contact with tissue or clothing. Never put more than one pint of muriatic or 1 lb. of sodium bisulphate into a pool at one time. Wait four (4) hours and test pH before adding more acid.
  2. WHY DO I NEED TO USE SODA ASH IN MY POOL? – The pH at times may drop lower than 7.2 by adding too much acid or from the presence of some foreign material in the water. Use soda ash to raise pH to safe level.

 

  1. DO I ADD CHEMICALS TO MY FILTER? – NO! Pool chemicals should not be added directly to filter or surface skimmer. Diatomaceous earth is the only item that should be added to skimmer of filter.

 

  1. HOW DO I ADD CHEMICALS TO THE POOL? – A predetermined amount should be selected and filter should be running. Caution. Protect your eyes, skin and clothing at all times. Do not mix different chemicals. Do not add different chemicals to pool at the same point.

 

  1. Liquid Chlorine – pour slowly into the water by walking around the pool. Place container as close to water as possible to avoid splashing.

 

  1. Dry Chlorine – Granular or Tablet – can be placed in a floating chlorine dispenser. Do not pour any un-dissolved powder into pool because this may cloud water, shorten filter cycle, or settle to bottom and stain the poor liner.

 

  1. Dry Stable Chlorine – Granular, powder or tablet should be placed in a floating dispenser

 

  1. Muriatic Acid – Dilute acid 10 to 1 or 20 to 1 with water in a plastic bucket and slowly pour solution into water while walking around pool.
  2. Sodium Bisulphate – dissolve in a gallon of water (use plastic bucket) and slowly pour diluted liquid into water while walking around pool. Acid normally will react and be completely neutralized in 30 minutes with good pool circulation.

 

  1. Soda Ash – pre-dissolve soda ash in water and slowly add solution to pool water.

 

  1. WHEN IS THE BEST TIME FOR CHLORINATION? – In the evening after the sun has gone down and the day’s swimming is over. High temperatures and sunlight tend to dissipate chlorine rapidly.

 

  1. WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO ADD ACID? – In the morning, however, one should test the water for chlorine residual and pH prior to the addition of any chemicals.
  2. WHEN SHOULD I TEST FOR CHLORINE RESIDUAL? – In the morning, before swimmers into the pool. If the bathing load has been heavy in the morning, an afternoon test is suggested to be sure the water is always properly chlorinated for healthful swimming.
  3. HOW DO I TEST FOR CHLORINE? – By using your pool test kit. This may either be in the form of single chlorine test set or a duplex test kit in which you can test for chlorine and pH. The chlorine test set, either OTO or DPD indicates the concentration of chlorine in the water by a simple color change of pool water sample which is compared to standard color codes. To be sure of the chlorine residual this test should be made daily.

 

  1. WHAT IS SUPERCLORINATION? – (SHOCK TREATMENT) – Continued low concentrations of chlorine tend to permit strains of organisms to develop which are more resistant to the normal concentration of chlorine. Because of this it is advisable to apply shock treatment, or superchlorination treatment, to control these organisms and also to burn out other accumulation of organic matter. This type of treatment calls for from five to ten times the normal dosage of chlorine once every two or three weeks.

 

  1. COMBINED CHLORINE – Common Problem – When chlorine becomes combined there are some indications which often appear:

 

  1. A Strong test of chlorine (this is a reading of chlorine in an unusable from).

 

  1. A strong odor of chlorine (not found when chlorine and pH are in balance).

 

  1. Swimmers complain of eye irritation (this is not a normal reaction of a bather to chlorine).

 

  1. Water tends to be cloudy or grayish.

To correct this condition (and almost all normal problems) one should:

  1. ADJUST pH (so that chlorine is available to perform its three (3) basic functions: to kill bacteria – to kill algae – to destroy organic matter in the water).

 

  1. SUPER-CHLORINATE OR SHOCK. With the adjusted pH, this super-chlorinization will drive off the unusable forms of chlorine which cannot be restored, and replace them with usable forms of chlorine (in a proper pH condition) which is now available to perform the three (3) basic functions which chlorine is intended to perform: to kill bacteria – to kill algae – to destroy organic matter.

 

Again, it is good practice to super-chlorinate once every two or three weeks.

 

Comprehensive Chemical Guide For Above Ground Pools

Above Ground pools Chemical Basics Pt 2

Above Ground pools Chemical Basics Pt 2

READY THE DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY

For sterilization of pool water chlorine is the most widely accepted and used chemical. It is an efficient bactericide as well as good algaecide when used properly. The amount of chlorine required to maintain a pool in a safe sterilized condition will vary depending upon several factors such as water temperature, extent to which the pool is used, degree or airborne contamination, sunlight exposure, and balance of other chemicals and minerals present in the water.

 

It is a good practice to maintain a free chlorine residual of between 0.3 and 0.6 ppm (parts per million) in the water at all times. This is based upon the use of chlorine without any stabilizing agent, such as cyanuric acid. If a stabilizer is used, the chlorine residual should be increased to at least 1.0 ppm.

 

Chorine plays another important role in addition to its sterilizing action. During the process of use of a pool there is an accumulation of various nitrogen containing organic compounds in the water. These nitrogen compounds tend to reduce the effectiveness of chlorine as a germicide. However, when chlorine is added in greater strength it will literally burn these undesirable materials rendering them inactive. Because of this it is important that a shock dosage of chlorine, 5 to 10 times the normal dosage, be added once every few weeks when the pool is not in use to burn out the nitrogen materials. This is referred to as Shock Treatment or Break Point Chlorination.

Chlorine Residual (free available) is the reserve amount of active chlorine present in the water available to immediately act upon bacteria or algae contamination as it may occur. This residual should be tested for daily, preferably in the morning before the pool is in use. The chlorine residual test is made with your water test kit. Two types of test kits are generally accepted in the swimming pool industry, OTO and DPD. OTO

  1. (orthotolidine) upon the addition of a few drops of OTO to a sample of pool water, a yellow color will develop in the sample if there is any chlorine present. The amount of chlorine is indicated by the intensity of the yellow and is determined by comparison with calibrated color standards which are a permanent part of the test kit. DPD (Diethyl-p-phenylene diamine) with this type of test kit, a DPD chlorine tablet is added to a sample of pool water, the amount of “free” chlorine is indicated by comparison of the resultant color to the color chart provided with the kit. To be assured of safe water, the chlorine residual should be kept between 0.3 and 0.6 ppm (parts per million). If a chlorine stabilizer such as cyanuric acid is used, the residual should be increased to at least 1.0 ppm.

 pH. The balance between acidity and alkalinity is referred to as pH. It is represented by numerical values ranging from 1.0 to 14.0. A value of 7.0 indicates a neutral condition, neither acid nor alkaline. Values below 7 represent an acid condition increasing in intensity as the numerical value decreases. Alkaline conditions are represented by values above 7.0 increasing in strength as the numbers become greater. The ideal pH for pool water is generally between 7.2 and 7.6.

 Balancing the pH. If the pH deviates too far from the normal it should be adjusted.

 Low pH. When the pH drops below 7.2 it should be adjusted upward by the addition of small quantities of soda ash. Too low a pH causes skin and eye irritation and will accelerate corrosion of pool equipment.

 High pH. If the pH rises above 7.6 pool acid, either the liquid or the dry form should be added to the water. Whenever any acid is introduced into the pool, it should be diluted and thoroughly mixed throughout the pool, to prevent corrosion. A high pH reduces the effectiveness of chlorine as a germicide and an algaecide. This condition also causes eye irritation.

 

Above Ground pools Chemical Basics Pt 2

Above Ground Pools Chemicals Basics Pt 1

Above Ground Pools Chemicals Basics Pt 1

GENERAL INFORMATION

WARNING

YOU MUST STRICTLY FOLLOW all Chemical Manufacturer’s Instructions when STORING, HANDLING or DISPENSING SWIMMING POOL CHEMICALS. FAILURE TO OBEY THIS WARNING can RESULT in SERIOUS BURNS, PERMANENT INJURY, DEATH OR FIRE.

 

  1. STORE IN A COOL, DRY PLACE – Keep them away from chemicals and equipment used for garden and lawn maintenance, such as lawn mowers, mower and tractor fuel and lubricants, organic pesticides, solvents, paint and fertilizers. Try using a lockable steel cabinet labeled “Pool Chemicals Only,” to prevent access to small children.

 

  1. FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS – When using any chemical, follow label use instructions. Labels for disinfectants have been approved by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency under the Federal Insecticide Rodenticide Fungicide Act (FIRFA). To misuse or to use the disinfectant for other than its intended use is a violation of this act. Beware of torn or faded labels. WARNING – NEVER put chemicals directly into the skimmer or filter even if directed by the chemical manufacturer (See instruction 3 below concerning applying chemicals to pool water).

 

  1. APPLY DIRECTLY TO THE POOL WATER – The chemicals should be applied directly to the pool water, either in a suitable feeder or distributed across the surface of the pool, not directly into your filter or skimmer!  This procedure aids the circulating system to produce a uniform distribution of the dissolved chemical throughout the pool in the shortest period of time.

 

  1. AVOID MIXING POOL CHEMICALS – Do not mix any combinations of pool chemicals either accidentally or intentionally. Use CLEAN SCOOPS – ONE of EACH CHEMICAL is ADVISED – and avoid combining material from “old” and “new” containers. When preparing water solutions for feeder application (such as disinfectant or soda ash) pour the chemical slowly into the appropriate quantity of water, stirring constantly to provide mixing and dilutions.

 

  1. DISPOSE OF WASTES IN A SAFE MANNER –Sweep up and dispose of or wash to the sewer any spilled disinfectant or pH adjustment chemicals. Follow local regulations about disposal. Since they are intended for use at low levels in water, they usually can be sent to the sewer with copious quantities of water. Do not put floor sweepings of disinfectant chemicals in containers with wastes such as paper, rags or other burnable substances. Wash out empty disinfectant containers and follow local regulations for their proper disposal.

 

If you have a question regarding the disposal of spilled chemicals or if a fire starts, immediately call your local fire department. They are equipped to handle such

accidents. If the fire department is unsure how to handle a chemical spill or fire, they may call the Chemical Transportation Emergency Center (CHEMTREC)

800-424-9300, in an emergency.

  1. TAKE CARE OF YOURSELF – Do not inhale dust form the chemicals used around the pool. If necessary, use proper protective devises for breathing, eye protection and handling. Promptly wash off any residues which get on your skin.

 

If you have any questions regarding safe handling, storage or use of pool chemicals, contact the manufacturers. They are quite willing to help.

 

In a small store or residence, similar segregation precautions should still be followed, even if there are fewer products. ONE IMPORTANT GUIDELINE is NOT TO STACK DIFFERENT CHEMICALS on TOP of ONE ANOTHER.

 

Pool chemicals are safe if handles and used properly. It is up to the individual to see that proper procedures are followed.  Finally…

Above Ground Pool Cold Climate Care

Above Ground Pool Cold Climate Care

Pool Care in Colder Climates 
  
In almost every climate, some precautions should be taken to winterize your pool. This may mean simply washing off pool equipment and accessories and storing them under cover, or it may mean closing down the pool. 
  
Simple Winterizing 
  
In some climates, you will probably keep your pool filled, continuing routine maintenance on a reduced schedule. Run the filter for half the time you normally would in the summer season, check the pH level and chlorinate only once a week. Pool covers help keep the pool clean and the pool water and chemicals from evaporating. Check with your local NSPI pool professional for special advice that applies to your area. 
Closing the Pool 
  
Only a few pools need to be drained during the winter. In fact, many pools fare cold temperatures better when partially filled with water as a buffer. A drained pool can also crack or pop out of the ground because of pressure from ground water. Your NSPI builder can give you guidelines to follow if you must drain your pool. 
  
If you close your pool, keep these things in mind: 
  
Get your water balanced properly to prevent stains, scaling and algae growth. Put in an extra dose of sanitizer to help keep the pool clean and algae free. 
  
Thoroughly clean and vacuum the pool. Drain below the skimmer inlet lines or in heavy freeze areas, below the return lines and then plug the lines. 
Close valves on the skimmer. 
  
Make sure water does not accumulate and freeze in skimmers. 
  
Clean and backwash the filter. 
  
Drain all water in the heater, filter, pump and piping system. Remove the pump motor and store in a dry place. 
  
Turn off all power to the support equipment and remove fuses or turn the circuit breakers to OFF. 
  
If you have a slide or diving board, take it off and store it. 
  
Cover the pool and plug all openings. 
  
Store chemicals in a cool dry place.

Above Ground Pool Cold Climate Care

Above Ground Pool Chemical Level Information

 

The Chemicals

 

By adding chlorine or bromine to your pool water, you can protect yourself against germs and algae that might form on the pool’s surface or in the water itself. Chemicals disinfect the water and also keep it sparkling clean.

 

How to Use a Test Kit

 

You can do most of the necessary water maintenance on your own pool. Most pool stores stock easy-to-use test kits, and testing the water is the first step.

 

Obtain a reliable test kit and carefully follow the directions which come with it. Some helpful hints include reaching far below the surface to get an accurate water sample and taking your sample at the same time of day, say early evening.

Balancing pH in Pool Water

 Above Ground Pool Chemical Level Information

Once you have tested your water, charts included in the testing kit will indicate your water’s pH balance. The ideal pH level for pool water is between 7.2 and 7.6. Above 7.6, the water is more alkaline (base) and under certain conditions can form deposits in the piping and on pool surfaces.

 

Below 7.2 pH, the pool water is more acidic; the lower on the scale, the greater the acidity. If the water is too acidic, it can damage the piping and pool surfaces under certain conditions.

 

Maintaining your water slightly on the alkaline side (between 7.2 and 7.6) helps chemicals do a proper disinfecting job, keeps scale from forming on the pool and support equipment and retards any corrosion.

 

Adding the Right Chemicals

 

The pH of your pool tells you which chemicals to add to maintain a 7.2 to 7.6 pH level. Soda ash or sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate are common chemicals used to raise pH. Muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate lower pool water pH and make it more acidic. Liquid, powder or tablet forms of the chemicals are most often used in residential pools.

Above Ground Pool Chemical Level Information

Over Stabilization Of Above Ground Pools

Over Stabilization Of Above Ground Pools

What is over stabilization?
The build-up of Cyanuric acid in swimming pool water, which usually results from the extended use of stabilized sanitizers in conjunction with stabilized shock products.

Over stabilization will significantly decrease the effectiveness of chlorine in killing germs, bacteria and algae.  Small levels of Cyanuric acid do serve a purpose in protecting chlorine from sunlight degradation.  However, too much will negate any benefit and cause problems.  The recommended levels of Stabilizer (Cyanuric acid) are between 40 and 60 ppm.

POOLIFE® calcium hypochlorite sanitizers and shock products offer the complete solution to over stabilization.  Calcium hypochlorite based products (read the active ingredient on the label) are Cyanuric acid free and will not cause over stabilization.  Several state health departments have eliminated or banned the use of Cyanuric acid based product in public swimming pools.  Ensure you practice responsible pool care and have a reliable and balanced pool care program.
 

The use of stabilized sanitizer in conjunction with stabilized shock products can cause the formation
of algae when the cyanuric acid levels reach 70ppm.  This can occur within 6 – 7 weeks.

 

As cyanuric acid levels increase, the kill time on bacteria increases significantly.

 

Over Stabilization Of Above Ground Pools

 

Adding Shock To Above Ground Pools

Adding Shock To Above Ground Pools

Shock Treatment

Shock. Shock treat. Shock treatment. All these terms mean the addition of chlorine to pool water in larger than normal amounts. Shock treating your pool is of the utmost importance because it protects you and your family from bacteria and organic contaminants.

A shock treatment adds 5.0 – 10.0 p.p.m. FAC. This concentrated blast helps prevent and correct most common pool water problems. You should shock your pool water while the pump and filter are in operation. After a shock treatment, check to make sure the FAC is 1.0 – 4.0 p.p.m. before entering the pool.

Choose the “Right” Shock Product
To give your pool the ultimate cleaning and to help ensure your family’s safety and enjoyment, be sure to use a POOLIFE® calcium hypochlorite based shock treatment product. Using a superior calcium hypochlorite product such as POOLIFE TurboShock or Rapid Shock is the best way to be sure you’re killing harmful bacteria.

When using these products they won’t increase the water’s stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level and won’t corrode the equipment.   Do not use a shock product that is stabilized (i.e. contains cyanuric acid – read the label) It will increase the stabilizer level and can interfere with the effectiveness of the chlorine.

Always use a shock treatment product that controls algae and kills bacteria (read the label). Some products are promoted as shock treatment, but they’re not sanitizers.  This means that a sanitizer must still be added to the pool to kill bacteria and to control algae.

When Should You Shock Treat? 
You need to shock your pool water when opening and closing your pool. 

You should also shock treat weekly during the pool season to kill bacteria, algae and other unsightly contaminants. We recommend shocking at the same time and on the same day each week. The optimum time to shock your pool is sundown. At this time of the day, the chlorine can work without fighting the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Shocking after sundown also gives chlorine more time to restore the water clarity.

An additional shock treatment should be given when any of the following situations occur:

– After heavy swimmer loads
– After strong rains and wind
– During periods of extreme sun
– When swimmers complain of burning eyes
– When unpleasant odors occur
– When signs of algae growth appear
– When water appears, dull, hazy or cloudy

 

Adding Shock To Above Ground Pools

Chlorinating Above Ground Pools

Chlorinating Above Ground Pools

Understanding Free Available Chlorine (FAC)

Healthy pool water is achieved by using a chlorinator to kill bacteria, control algae and destroy organic contaminants.

Q:  What is free available chlorine (FAC)?
A:  Free available chlorine is the amount of active chlorinator in the water.

Q:  What is the correct amount of FAC?
A:  The FAC in your pool should be 1.0 – 4.0 p.p.m.

Q:  Why should the FAC be at that level?
A:  Below 1.0 p.p.m. can cause algae problems, cloudy water, swimmer rashes and bacteria problems.

Q:  What should you do if your FAC is less than 1.0 p.p.m.?
A:  Just add chlorinator or shock treatments until you reach the desired FAC level.

Q:  How often should I test for FAC?
A:  Test at least twice a week during the summer season (daily is better).

 

Chlorinating Above Ground Pools

Preventing Algae In An Above Ground Pool

Preventing Algae In An Above Ground Pool

Algae Prevention

Nothing creates a better impression than having a pool with water that is crystal clear and with a sparkle on the surface.  If algae get into the pool or if there are tiny suspended particles in the water, it can spoil the appearance and in extreme cases even stop you from using the pool.  The best way to prevent this happening is to use one of the POOLIFE Pool Care Systems and follow the   4-Step POOLIFE Program. 

Q.  What are algae?
A.  Algae are microscopic-plants that grow in water.  They are usually green, but you can find blue-green, black, yellow or
     mustard.  They can grow on the pool surface or float in the water. Algae can turn pool water green, and if you are unlucky
     this can literally happen overnight.

Q.  Won’t chlorine kill algae?
A.  Yes usually.  But there are occasions when chlorine levels are allowed to drop too low or the chlorine is not acting
     effectively because the water is out of balance, or the pool water has very high levels of stabilizer (cyanuric acid)

Q.  What can I do to prevent algae?
A.  Always ensure there is adequate chlorine in the pool at all times. Follow the POOLIFE 4-Step Pool Care Program and add
     a preventive dose of algaecide once a week.

Q.  What can I do once the algae have taken hold?
A.  If this happens, you should shock treat and then add a POOLIFE algaecide.  To treat common algae like green and yellow,
     use POOLIFE Algae Bomb 30 or POOLIFE Super Algae Bomb 60, POOLIFE AlgaeOut or POOLIFE Super AlgaeOut. 
     POOLIFE Yellow Rid®, when used in conjunction with a POOLIFE shock product, cleans up both green and yellow algae.
     Mustard and black algae are more difficult to remove, so we recommend using POOLIFE AlgaeBan or POOLIFE AlgaeKill. 
     Always follow product label directions carefully.

Preventing Algae In An Above Ground Pool

Starting Up Your Above Ground Pool

Starting Up Your Above Ground Pool

  1. Fill Pool and prime pump, add D.E. if desired
  2. And Sun Scale and Iron Remover. This helps prevent staining corrosion or scaling on pool and equipment
  3. Add Sun Clarifier (as per instructions) This condenses small particles for easier filtration
  4. Add Sun Conditioner, 8oz. per 1000 gallons (dissolve in a pail of warm water first)
  5. run Filter All night to completely filter and circulate the water.
  6. Shock the Pool with Sun Burn or Sun Granular Chlorine per instruction. Always pre-dissolve chlorine before adding to a vinyl liner pool. Pour in return outlet to circulate quickly. This helps to oxidize organic material.
  7. Add Sun Tablets (sticks) Use a floater or auto-chlorinator . We de not recommend putting tablets in skimmer as this promotes corrosion of filter parts and can damage liners.
  8. Add Sun Algaecide as per instructions.
  9. Check pH using a test kit and adjust using sun minus or sun plus. adjust with small quantities and check in an hour
  10. In one week have water tested.

Above Ground Pool Water Chemistry

Above Ground Pool Water Chemistry

 

Definitions

Pool water chemistry is the most misunderstood, yet vital component to overall pool care. Not only does proper water chemistry protect the swimmers using the pool, but it also protects the swimming pool itself. Gas heaters, electrical heat-pumps, filters, and even the vinyl-liner can all suffer severe damage from unbalanced pool water. In order to clear up some of the confusion surrounding this subject, we have listed some of the more important water chemistry terms below.

 Total Hardness
Total Hardness refers to the amount of calcium and magnesium in your pool water. When total hardness is too high, scale can form causing the water to appear cloudy. When total hardness is too low, the water will corrode metal fixtures including copper components found in gas heaters and electrical heat-pumps. The total hardness should measure 150 – 300 ppm.

 Chlorine
Chlorine is a disinfectant designed to sanitize (kill disease-causing organisms) and oxidize (destroy ammonia, nitrogen-containing contaminants and swimmer waste). A disinfectant must be continually active in the pool water so that it may react instantaneously with bacteria, algae and other organic matter as they are introduced into the water. The level of active chlorine is called the free chlorine residual and should measure 1.5 – 3.0 ppm.

 Total Alkalinity
Total Alkalinity measures the amount of alkaline substances in the pool water. Alkaline substances buffer your water against sudden changes in the pH. When the total alkalinity is too low, the water will corrode metal fixtures including copper components found in gas heaters and electrical heat-pumps. Low total alkalinity could also cause staining and weaken your vinyl liner, causing it to wrinkle. The total alkalinity should measure 80 ppm for swimming pools using granular chlorine, or 100 – 120 ppm for swimming pools using stabilized chlorine such as chlorine tablets.

 pH
pH refers to the intensity of acid or alkaline materials in your pool water. pH is measured on a pH scale extending from 1 (extremely acidic) to 14 (extremely alkaline). A pH of 7.0 is considered to be neutral. High pH (higher than 7.8) can cause eye and skin irritation, reduce the sanitizing action of chlorine, and cause the water to appear cloudy. Low pH (less than 7.2) can cause eye and skin irritation and corrode metal fixtures including copper components found in gas heaters and electrical heat-pumps. The pH should measure 7.2 – 7.8.

 Cyanuric Acid (Chlorine Stabilizer)
Cyanuric acid lengthens the life of chlorine in the pool water. Chlorine products that contain cyanuric acid as an ingredient are referred to as “stabilized chlorine”. These types of chlorine are used to maintain consistent levels of chlorine in the pool water. But they are not very effective at clearing cloudy water or killing algae. For pools that use “non-stabilized chlorine”, that is chlorine that does not have cyanuric acid as an ingredient, cyanuric acid should be added in the spring when the pool is clear and the water is balanced. The cyanuric acid level should measure 40-80 ppm.

Pool Water Problems and Solutions

Cloudy Water
Pool water can turn cloudy for a variety of reasons. The most common cause of cloudy water is either dead algae floating in the pool water or other small particles floating in the water such as dissolved leaves. The best way to treat a cloudy pool is chlorine, chlorine, and more chlorine. You should add a large dose of non-stabilized chlorine (either calcium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite) each day for four to five days straight, keeping your free chlorine level above 3 ppm at all times and running the pool filter 24 hours a day. If this does not clear your water, then you can try clarifiers and other products. But first shock your pool water.

Algae
Algae are microscopic plants which can transform your pool water from clear blue to a swamp in as little as 24 hours. Algae spores are introduced into the pool through the air, from rain water, and from swimmers walking across the grass and then jumping into the pool. Algae blooms are common after heavy rain showers and when the pool water temperature is high. There are many types of algae, the most common in our area being green algae, mustard algae, and black algae. The most effective way of preventing algae growth is to maintain a free chlorine level of at least 1.5 ppm at all times, run the pool filter 24 hours a day, and to add a dose of algaecide once a week. We have also found that adding Sun Algaecide to the pool water decreases your chances of suffering from an algae bloom. a Sun Algaecide acts as an inhibitor against algae growth by lowering algae’s ability to process carbon dioxide in the water making it difficult for an algae spore to germinate and grow. If you do develop algae, apply the appropriate algaecide, shock the pool, and brush down the entire pool causing the algae to become suspended in the pool water. The next day, if anything settles out, vac it out to “Waste”.

Tinted Water and Stains
If minerals are present in the pool water, they can cause the pool water to turn green, brown, yellow, and even purple. The water would look clear but discolored. It can be very difficult to distinguish between green water caused by green algae and green water caused by a mineral problem. A telltale sign of a mineral problem is the discoloring of the pool water shortly after shocking the pool. If this occurs, you will need to add a mineral sequester to the pool. Exactly how much is a guess. We have seen cases where one bottle has solved the problem, and others where multiple bottles were needed. Mineral problems are a tough nut to crack and the pool industry is just now trying to get a handle on it. Stains on the vinyl liner are also treated by adding a mineral sequester. Persistent stains might need to be treated with an “on contact” product that must be applied directly to the stained area of the pool. If the stain is on the bottom of the pool, applying the product directly on the stain can be tricky, but possible.

Low pH
Due to the acidic nature of our tap water and our rain, we tend to suffer more from low pH pool water than from high pH pool water. Fortunately, correcting the pH balance of your pool water is quite simple. All you need to do is add pH Increaser (also called soda ash and base). But before you add pH Increaser be sure to get your Total Alkalinity balanced first. Once the Total Alkalinity is balanced, the pH can be adjusted more accurately.

Above Ground Pool Care Question What Are TDS

Above Ground Pool Care Question What Are TDS’s?

Total Dissolved Solids

Total dissolved solids (TDS) is, as its name implies, the measure of the total amount of dissolved material in the water.

The level of TDS in the pool is influenced by many factors; the chemicals we add to adjust the pH, chlorine, water hardness, alkalinity, dust, dirt, human waste, . . . all increase its level.

The maximum acceptable level of TDS for swimming pools is 1,500 ppm. At values above this, we begin to notice stains in the pool. It will also reduce the activity of any chemicals you add, preventing them from doing what they’re supposed to. The water may also become cloudy.

Unfortunately, if the TDS level is too high, there is little that can be done to reduce it. The only practical solution is to drain some or all of the water from the pool (depending on how high the TDS is), and replace it with fresh water (with a low TDS). A regular backwashing routine will help to prevent the TDS from rising too much.

 

Flocculants in Above Ground Pool Water

Flocculants in Above Ground Pool Water 

 

One of the problems with our easily maintained sand filters is that they are unable to trap dirt or foreign matter below 0.02 mm (20 microns). Cloudy water is probably a result of these minute particles of matter if the total alkalinity, pH, calcium hardness and TDS are all within the recommended limits.

Flocculation (or coagulation) is the process of adding chemicals which bind or stick these tiny particles together, resulting in larger clumps which settle to the bottom of the pool and leave the water clear. These “clumps” can be easily removed by vacuuming the floor of the pool.

Chlorination or chlorine shock treatment may also clear the water, but this is both expensive and upsets the water balance.

Flocculant is relatively inexpensive and can be used frequently in pools that are exposed to high levels of pollutants (both environmental and swimmer waste). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for use, as there is a wide variety of “floc agents” available, each of which has different directions.

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem That Chlorine Smell

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem That Chlorine Smell

Many pool owners complain that the swimming pool water is not really clean, but they can smell the chlorine so there must be enough in the water to ensure disinfection.

Unfortunately, if you can smell chlorine, the swimming pool hasn’t got enough – strange, isn’t it?! What you can smell are chloramines. These are formed when insufficient levels of free available chlorine react with ammonia and other nitrogen-containing compounds (swimmer waste, sweat, urine, etc.), resulting in their only being partially broken down (creating halomethanes).

To confirm this, measure the free available chlorine and total chlorine. You will be able to calculate the unwanted, irritating combined chlorine compounds as follows:

Combined chlorine = total chlorine – free chlorine

You will probably find that there is little or no free available chlorine and too much combined chlorine. A chlorine shock treatment or other pool water sanitizer is necessary to complete the disinfection and dissipate the combined chlorine.

The combined chlorine in the pool water can also be destroyed with a non-chlorine shock if you prefer not to use large quantities of chlorine.

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem Scale Deposits

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem Scale Deposits

Problem:  Scale Deposits

Solution 
Scale deposits (usually in the form of white, gray or brownish chalky deposits on pool walls and fixtures) are the precipitate that forms as a result of unbalanced water.  This could be a high pH, high TA , high calcium hardness and/or a combination thereof.

Take a sample of your pool water to your authorized POOLIFE Dealer for a full analysis.  Balance your water according to your dealer’s recommendations.  

 

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem Skin Irritation

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem Skin Irritation

 

Problem:  Eye and Skin Irritation

Solution
Often high levels of chlorine are blamed for eye and skin irritation or a strong chlorine odor. In fact the reason could be too little free available chlorine and an incorrect pH.  Follow the recommendations below:

  1. Check pH and alkalinity levels and adjust as necessary. 
  2. Shock the pool with POOLIFE TurboShock or POOLIFE Rapid Shock.  Once you have done
      this, remember to recheck the pH and total alkalinity levels and readjust if necessary. 
      Remember to always keep the chlorine levels between 1 – 4 ppm.

 

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem Colored Water

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem Colored Water

Problem:  Colored Water

Solution
Colored Water (clear green/brown/yellow tint with no algae) has generally two causes – dissolved metals or a high organic content in the water.  Follow these steps for sparkling clear water:

 

  1. Take a sample of the water to your authorized POOLIFE Dealer for a full analysis.
  2. If metals are detected, add POOLIFE Sequestering Agent (Metal Control) per label directions.

  3. If a high organic content is suspected, shock the pool with POOLIFE TurboShock or
      POOLIFE Rapid Shock per label directions.  Remember to wait until the free chlorine level has
      dropped to between 1 – 4 ppm before reentering the pool

 

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem Cloudy Water

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem Cloudy Water

 

Problem:  Cloudy Water

Solution
There are many causes of cloudy water, the most common being incorrect pH, incorrect TA and improper filtration. Always check and adjust the pH and TA levels before adjusting your filtration system. Thereafter follow these steps to investigate your filtration system:

  1. Make sure that the filtration system is running smoothly and that it is running at least 8 – 12 
      continuous hours daily.
  2. Does the filter need to be backwashed?
  3. If the filter pressure does not return to normal starting pressure after backwashing, the filter needs
      to be chemically cleaned.
  4. Have the pump strainer baskets and the skimmer baskets been emptied?
  5. Also test your water to make sure that the pH and total alkalinity are within the ideal range.
  6. Shock the pool with POOLIFE TurboShock or POOLIFE Rapid Shock.  Remember to wait until the
     chlorine level drops to between 1 and 4 ppm before re-entering the pool.

NOTE – POOLIFE Clarifier, POOLIFE Super Concentrated Clarifier or POOLIFE Clarifying Flocculent can also be used to clear cloudy water.

 

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem Algae

Above Ground Pools Trouble Shooting Problem Algae

Solution
The addition of shock and algaecide on a regular basis will be more effective at preventing algae growth than treating algae once it is visible in a pool.  However, if algae do appear, follow the steps below for treatment:

  1. Adjust the pH to 7.2 – 7.4.
  2. Brush the pool sides vigorously.
  3. Shock the pool with POOLIFE TurboShock or POOLIFE Rapid Shock.
  4. Add your POOLIFE AlgaeBomb 30, POOLIFE Super AlgaeBomb 60, or POOLIFE Algae Ban according
      to label directions. Your authorized POOLIFE Dealer can recommend which product is best for your pool.
  5. Run the filter 24 – 48 hours, brushing and vacuuming frequently.
  6. If algae remain a problem, contact your authorized POOLIFE Dealer for further directions.



NOTE
 – If you continue to experience algae, despite a high chlorine reading, the pool water may contain too much stabilizer
[cyanuric acid] which interferes with the efficiency of the chlorine – ensure you are following responsible pool care by shock-treating
with a POOLIFE calcium hypochlorite based shock product

What is the Power Usage Of An Above Ground Pool Pump

 

What is the Power Usage Of An Above Ground Pool Pump

 

What Are My Power Usage Going To Be?Power Usage For Above Ground Pool Pumps

The Short Answer is a 1hp pump is going to cost you @ 37.5 cents an hour to run.

Here’s the math:

Amps x Volts = Watts

1 HP Pump at 110v uses 14 amps at 220v 7 Amps

1540 Watts or 1.5 Kilowatt Hours  Each Kilowatt will cost 25 cents.

We recommend running your filter about 4 hour a day 

total daily cost to run your filter $1.50

or $45.00 per month

note: these figures were related to us by an electrical worker at Edison (a So CAL utility company) and are based on ABOVE baseline kilowatt costs.

 

Winterizing & Closing Your Pool

Winterizing & Closing Your Pool

 

You can contact your authorized POOLIFE Dealer for a professional pool closing or winterizing service.  However if you are a seasoned pool owner or a do-it-yourselfer, follow these simple steps:

The method you use to close your pool (winterizing) is important and will vary depending on a cold or warm climate. Closing your pool properly will save you money, time and chemicals at the beginning of the next season.

Cold Climate

  1. Take a pool water sample to an Authorized POOLIDE Dealer for a full analysis.
  2. Balance the water per the dealer’s recommendations.  If metals are detected, add POOLIFE Metal Control per
      label directions.
  3. Thoroughly brush and vacuum the pool.
  4. Shock the water with POOLIFE TurboShock or POOLIFE Rapid Shock per label directions for Winterizing.
  5. Add a winterizing dose of your preferred POOLIFE Algaecide  – follow label directions.
  6. Run the filter for 24 – 48 hours.  Thoroughly vacuum and remove any debris.
  7. If there is a chlorine feeder connected to the pool, make sure that there is no remaining chemical in the feeder. 
      Clean and flush the feeder per manufacturer’s directions or run filter until all remaining chemical has been
      dissolved.
  8. Clean the filter with the appropriate POOLIFE Filter Cleaner per label directions.
  9. Follow pool manufacturer’s directions on draining the pool so that the water level is below the skimmers, and
      inlet lines.
  10. Winterize all equipment following the manufacturer’s directions.
  11. Cover pool with properly fitting pool cover. Cover should be resistant to water, weather and pool chemicals.
        Seal the edge of the cover to prevent wind from getting under it.  This will save you clean-up time when you
        re-open your pool by keeping out unwanted debris. (If you secure the cover with water bags, fill them only
        halfway to allow for expansion if they freeze.)


For Regions with Milder Winters
If the pool is not covered during the months that it is not in use, follow the steps below:

  1. Follow steps 1 – 8 above.
  2. Continue good pool cleaning practices.
  3. Reduce the filter cycle to half of its swimming season setting.
  4. Clean the skimmer and pump baskets weekly or as needed.
  5. Monitor the pH, chlorine, total alkalinity and calcium hardness levels and adjust as necessary.

  6. Cover pool if desired. Even though you are not completely closing down your pool, you may want to cover it to
      keep leaves and dirt out, as well as reduce the need for chemicals and chlorination

 

Adding Chlorine To Your Pool

Adding Chlorine To Your Pool

Assuming that the total alkalinity is at the right level and the pH is correct, chlorine can be added. The amount of chlorine to add depends on the present chlorine level and the type of chlorine used. Refer to the manufacturers instructions for quantity. 

As discussed previously, chlorine degrades rapidly under the influence of UV light. For this reason chlorine should be added only in the late afternoon or early evening, when it can dissolve and mix thoroughly before the damaging sun’s rays can affect it.

The chlorine should be evenly scattered/ poured around the pool or poured slowly in front of the return flow jets to ensure rapid and even distribution.

Chlorine should be kept at a level of 1.0-3.0 ppm to ensure sufficient sanitation. If you are using a Pool Wizard, a level of 0.5 ppm is required. This combination will provide a far superior sanitation to chlorine alone.

If the pool has very high levels of contamination or there is a strong smell of chlorine around the pool, you may need to shock treat the water. This involves adding large quantities of non-stabilized chlorine (or non-chlorine oxidizers) to the pool, which rapidly destroys the offending matter.

 

Cleaning Your Above Ground Pool Water

Cleaning Your Above Ground Pool Water

 

Pollution in pool water comes either from the environment or is carried into the water by the swimmers. Environmental pollution includes dust, leaves, chemical wastes, pollen, spores, bacteria and so on, that are blown into the water by the wind. Swimmers carry other pollutants into the water: sweat, suntan oils, urine, bacteria, viruses, etc.

Every swimming pool has a circulation pump and filter. The filters most common these days are sand filters, and are much easier to maintain than the earlier diatomaceous filters of a few years back. The pool pump ensures that the swimming pool water moves through the filter every day, thus removing unwanted pollutants and disinfected organic materials as quickly as possible.

Other common pool filters include DE (diatomaceous earth) filters, which are able to filter out finer particles of dirt, though they require more maintenance. Cartridge filters are also quite widespread and are quite simple to maintain. Nowadays a filter sand substitute containing zeolite is gaining in popularity. The zeolite (specifically the clinoptilolite mineral) is able to filter particles as finely as DE filters in addition to having a capacity to absorb ammonia and its complexes (reducing combined chlorine and offensive chlorine odours), while not requiring any extra maintenance.

Generally, the swimming pool pump should run for at least 6 – 8 hours each day. There is usually a timer which cycles the pool pump on and off to ensure this constant filtration. The circulation of pool water will remove floating or suspended particles of dirt from the water, but has no effect on the substances which have settled to the bottom of the swimming pool or “stuck” to the walls.

Depending on the environmental conditions and swimmer load, the swimming pool needs regular brushing and vacuuming, generally about once a week in the swimming season for home pools. With the circulation pump turned off, the walls and floor of the pool are swept with a stiff brush. When the “dust” from the brushing settles, it is vacuumed off the floor of the swimming pool. The pool must also be vacuumed after treating with a flocculant. Nowadays, there is a variety of automatic swimming pool cleaners, which suck the dirt off the walls and floor of the swimming pool whenever the pool pump is running. These are really great for pool owners who never seem to have the time for swimming pool chores.

Now that the vacuuming is done, it is time to backwash the filter. Sand filters trap dust and dirt, as the name implies, in a bed of sand. When the filter has accumulated a large amount of dirt, the water cannot pass freely through the sand and the filter loses efficiency as the pressure increases. Backwashing sends water backwards through the filter and flushes the trapped dirt out. After backwashing, you will notice an increase in return pressure to the pool, and if you have a pressure guage, you should notice an increase of at least 0,5 bar.

With the pool pump off, turn the filter setting to “backwash”. Remove the leaf basket from the weir, clean and replace it. Turn on the pump and let it run until the water coming out of the waste pipe is clear. This generally needs a few minutes. Turn off the pump and set the filter to rinse; this cleans out the pipes and prevents any dirt from returning to the pool. It also settles the sand in the filter which has been stirred up by the backwashing. Run the pump for about a minute and then turn it off. Set the filter to “closed”. Open the leaf trap near the pump, remove the basket and clean out all the leaves, twigs and rubbish it may have collected. Replace the basket, set the filter to “filter” and turn your pump back to its automatic (timer) operating position.

Great! The swimming pool looks clean and the filter has been rejuvenated. Now it’s time to test the pool water and adjust the pH and chlorine levels.

If your swimming pool needs topping up, now is the ideal time to put the hose in the pool. It is very healthy for the swimming pool water to be replaced bit by bit, to prevent it becoming stale and creating chemical problems or pool water problems. A routine of 5-minute backwashing followed by a 1-minute rinse every week will ensure that you replace about 5% of the swimming pool water each month. This means a complete changeover of swimming pool water approximately every 2 years.

REMEMBER too, that the useful lifespan of the sand in your filter is 3-5 years. If you neglect to change the sand, your filter will not be able to remove the finer particles of dirt and your swimming pool can never be completely clean. Have the pool filter opened for inspection at least every 2 years to avoid filtration problems.

Algae In Above Ground Pools

 Algae In Above Ground Pools

(It’s Not Easy Being Green)

Algae are tiny plants that live in water and can bloom in a short time as their environment allows. Above Ground Pools are no strangers to  algae , which can form when there is plentiful sunshine, and food. The trick to controlling algae is to control it’s environment.

There are 3 main types of algae that are usually found in pool and spa water:
1. GREEN ALGAE – This type of algae floats in the water or forms on the sides of the pool or spa and appears dusty green.  If it goes to far it may completely obscure the water.
2. YELLOW ALGAE – Also called “Mustard Algae” because of the mustard color, appears as yellow powder deposits usually on the shady sides of the walls.
3. BLACK ALGAE – This type of algae also appears as a Blue-Green color and forms very adhesive inch or so size  spots on pool  surfaces.

When proper chlorination levels are maintained in your pool algae cannot form, Once algae does appear though normal levels of chlorine may not control it. Once algae is established you must treat the water with 30 PPM of Free Chlorine. This kills the algae and destroys the organic waste left behind.
Make sure the pump, filter and Chlorinator are working properly. Run pump continuously for 24 hours and then sweep thoroughly. Do not use the Pool or Spa until all chemical levels are back to normal and the water is crystal clear.

once Algae has a foothold in your pool you must get aggressive with it to defeat it.

3 Steps to Successful Pool Care

3 Steps to Successful Pool Care

Successful pool chemistry is like a dance, once you find the rhythm you can do the above ground pool Bosa Nova.   Just visit the three links below to get more information

 

  1. Balancing Your Pool’s Chemistry

  2. Sanitizing your Pool Water

  3. Shocking Your Pool

Like all pool care the old adage : A ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

From the Ask Bob Blog

T.Gurley Asked Bob:  Why do I always have chlorine in my pool, two days ago I fully treated the pool and today my test kit says I need alot more?

The sun stole your chlorine.  Back when I was a kid, I would occasionally buy goldfish. When ever I set up a new bowl, or cleaned the old bowl I would have to let the water sit for a day so the chlorine could escape from the water.

Chlorine is happiest in normal temperatures as a gas. To keep it in a liquid state we have to do funny things to it.  If you simply put chlorine in a pool full of un-stabilized water it will happily find ways to escape into the atmosphere.

 

Shocking Your Above Ground Pools

Shocking Your Above Ground Pools

The final step in the process is to shock the pool. The addition of shock products breaks down the chloramines and destroys them. These chloramines are created when nitrogen containing organic compounds, such as suntan oils, cosmetics, perspiration, etc., combine with the chlorine residual in your pool water. The resulting chloramines provide no sanitizing function and actually cause strong chlorine odor, cloudy water, eye irritation, and become food for bacteria and algae.  Weekly applications of Shock will reduce the chloramines (and the chlorine smell)  and keep your pool chemicals functioning at top levels.

 

As with all chemicals use with care and spread around the pool.  Do not dump it all in one place. It is also not recommended to pre-dissolve the shock in a bucket of water, as you will have in your hands a HIGHLY caustic substance

Sanitizing Your Above Ground Pool Water

Sanitizing Your Above Ground Pool Water

Sanitization comes from adding chemicals to your water that are antibacterial in nature. Whether achieved by Chlorine, Baquacil or other methods, (such as salt water generators) levels must be maintained to ensure healthy water levels

The most commonly used method of sanitizing pools is application of a chlorinating product. The continuous chlorine level should be kept between 1.0 – 3.0 ppm (parts per million) for proper sanitation. Stabilized chlorinating products come in several forms including 1″ and 3″ tablets, sticks, granules and floaters. Brominating products are also effective sanitizers and offer low-odor sanitation at higher temperatures, and are ideal for spa and hot tub applications.

These products can be applied to pool water in many ways, in liquid, tablet, or granules.  In floats, through the filtering system or by adding directly. The important thing is to keep the proper levels at all times

 

Balancing The Water Of Your Above Ground Pool

Balancing The Water Of Your Above Ground Pool

 

 

Keeping your pool water in balance is a key step in quality pool care. When your pool water is balanced then pool care is easy. but when it becomes unbalanced, problems can and will arise.  Pool Water Balance takes into account pH, Calcium and TA or Total Alkalinity

The table below applies to all pools.

Test Frequency of Test Best results Range
Alkalinity monthly 125-150 ppm*
Calcium Hardness bi-monthly 175-225 ppm*
pH twice a week 7.2-7.6

Correct  Levels Ensure:

Bacteria fighting power of chemicals will be at their peak

You will not see a corrosive build up on pools or parts

Minimal Pool and Eye Irritations

To keep your pool balanced, test it and then add what is nessecary.

 

For pH

If pH is low add a pH Plus Product  Like Pool Life Plus

If pH is High add a pH Minus Product Like Pool Life Minus

For Calcium Hardness

If Calcium is low add a water hardener agent

if Calcium is High add a sequestering agent

For Total Alkalinity

If Alkalinity is Too high, add an Alkalinity Decreaser

If Alkalinity is Too low, add an Alkalinity Increaser

 

Basic Wiring Of One Our Above Ground Pool Pumps

Wiring an one of our Pump is a fairly straight forward process of attaching 3 wires

  • Open the access Panel
  • Attach the Green Ground to the screw green tinted screw
  • Attach the Black Wire to the top empty screw
  • Attach the white wire to the bottom empty screw
  • Close the Access Panel
  • and your done!

 

Trouble Shooting Above Ground Pool Pumps

Trouble Shooting Above Ground Pool Pumps

1.      Do not operate filter without first reading thoroughly the manufacturer’s instructions accompanying the filter. If no instructions were included, contact nearest manufacturer’s agent and obtain written instructions.

 

  1. Never operate filter unless motor is connected to GROUNDED electrical outlet. Never plug in electric cord unless ground connection is used. Never use any extension cord. Circuit must be protected by a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter.

 

  1. PRIMING THE PUMP – This is the process of removing the air in the pump and the lines over the pool walls. If a hair and lint pot (strainer) is attached to the pump, priming may be accomplished by removing the cover, filling the pot with water and replacing the cover before starting the pump. If no strainer is present on the pump the following steps must be taken: Insert a garden hose in the suction line, forcing the air out of the lines and the pump unit, until air bubbles ease to be expelled from the discharge line. Remove garden hose and start motor. If filter has an air relief valve, open this until a steady stream of water flows, then close securely. In some filters, prime is retained during the cleaning process. If after starting unit there is not steady stream of water, turn motor off and prime unit before running. Running pump without proper priming may cause damage to pump seal and unit will leak.

 

  1. AIR BUBBLES IN THE RETURN LIINE – This may be caused by air leaks in the suction line (this is the line from the pool to the front opening to the pump).  Check all connections in this line to see that they are secure and not allowing air to be drawn into the line.

 

  1. CAVITAION – This is caused by starving the pump of sufficient amount of water for proper operation. It may be due to a restriction in the suction line, an excess amount of air being taken in with the water or a dirty strainer.

 

  1. PULSATION WATER STREAM – Water flowing in spurts from discharge line, may be due to air leaks in suction side of unit or cavitation of pump.

 Trouble Shooting Above Ground Pool Pumps

 

Problem Birds Around Above Ground Pools

Problem Birds Around Above Ground Pools

Birds around and droppings in  swimming pools have always been a problem, but now with the threat of bird flu on the horizon it is even more of a concern. To battle this first, make sure that your pool chemistry is up to snuff and your chlorine level is at it’s peak. Chlorine does a spiffy job on all the bacteria involved with bird droppings, but the virus may persist. Make sure all surfaces are clear and clean. Keep your pool covered when not in use.

Here are some ideas to chase birds away from your pool area.

  • Install an owl with a movable head, make sure to move it every couple of days (keeps birds from nesting in area)

  • Hand old CD’s from trees and eves of house, the sparkling light will keep birds away.

  • Place rubber snakes in the pool

  • Weave a grid of fishing line above the pool (out of reach of people and kids)

 

Good Luck

Problem: Birds Around Above Ground Pools 

Saving Energy With Your Above Ground Pools

 

Saving Energy With Your Above Ground Pools 

Saving Energy: Pool Covers,

Timers and Solar Heating

 

Whether you heat your pool or not, a pool cover is one of the best investments you can make. Most solar pool covers are moderately priced and usually pay for themselves in one season. If handled properly, a good cover will last many years.

 

Several types of pool covers are available. Covers are usually made of plastic or aluminum sheets. They can be compared on:

 

  1. ability to transmit sunlight to a pool;
  2. ability to reduce heat loss from the pool:
  3. ease of handling: and
  4. durability of product and length of warranty.

 

If you do heat your pool, a pool cover can help you realize energy savings of 50 to 70 percent or more, depending on the climate where you live and the time of year. Pool covers also aid in keeping leaves out and reducing pool water evaporation.

Timers for Heaters

 

Heaters work on a thermostat linked to the pool’s water temperature. Heaters may be set on timers for ease of operation. However, the heater can overheat without water circulating through it, so whenever the heater is on, the pump must be running. A time clock with fireman control should be used if the heater is on a timer. This will allow the pump to run for a short time after the heater is turned off to cool down the system.

 

Solar Heating

Solar heating has the advantage of economy and provides virtually free heat once it is installed. However, solar pool heating does require a greater investment in both equipment and installation than gas, oil or electricity.

 

The different kinds of active solar heating systems all involve piping the pool water through solar collectors. These collectors or solar panels may be piped under a deck area, mounted on a roof or placed outside where there is direct exposure to the sun.

 

A pump cycles pool water through the solar collectors and back to the pool. The pump is controlled by a thermostat which activates the flow of water when the collectors are warm enough to raise the pool temperature.

 

Check with local NSPI dealers as to the actual benefits to be gained from solar heating in your particular region. Some state tax credits may also apply.

 

In addition to these “active” solar systems, there are passive systems that aim to pre-serve as much heat as possible. They range from pool covers to dark-bottomed pools and landscaping that cuts down wind and heat loss.

 Saving Energy With Your Above Ground Pools

 

Calculating Above Ground Pool Volume

 

Calculating Above Ground Pool Volume

Calculating Above Ground Pool Volume



Before you can determine the correct dosage of any chemical you’re going to add, you need to know how many gallons your pool holds.  Make all your measurements in feet.  Example: use 12.5 instead of 12′ 6″.

1. Figure out the average depth of your pool.

(deep end depth) feet + (shallow end depth) feet = _______ feet / 2 = (average depth) feet


2. Calculate your pool’s capacity using one of the formulas below.

Pool Shape
» Rectangular or square:  (length) feet x (width) feet x (average depth) feet x 7.5 = (pool capacity) gallons 
» Oval:  (maximum length) feet x (maximum depth) feet x (average depth) feet x 5.9 = (pool capacity) gallons
» Circular:  (diameter) feet x (diameter) feet x (average depth) feet x 5.9 = (pool capacity) gallons

Above Ground Swimming Pool Pump and Filter Information

 Above Ground Swimming Pool Pump and Filter Information

 

The purpose of the filter is to remove foreign material from the water. These materials consist mainly of airborne dirt and leaves, organic matter introduced by bathers, and organisms such as bacteria and algae. Swimming pool filtration is a mechanical straining or entrapping process. A well-designed and properly operated filter will remove virtually all of the insoluble suspended matter in the water producing a sparkling clean condition. It must be recognized that a filter does not destroy living organisms such as algae and bacteria. This is accomplished by the use of chemicals.

 

The length of time the filter must be operated to produce the desired clarity will vary with several conditions, some of the most significant being:

  1. Number of bathers
  2. Temperature
  3. Sunlight
  4. Degree of chlorination (covered in Pool Chemistry Section)
  5. Proper pH control (covered in Pool Chemistry Section)
  6. Exposure to airborne contamination

 

There are several types of filters that may be used on swimming pools. The most satisfactory are described below:

 

CARTRIDGE AND ELEMENT FILTER

 

Cartridge filters consist of a removable-replaceable filter element. There are two basic types of cartridges, namely depth and surface. Dept cartridges consist of a thick layer of fiberous materials graded and blended to provide thousands of tiny crevices to trap dirt. Surface cartridges are made by pleating specially compounded paper or synthetic fabric to provide a large area of fiber surface in a relatively small volume. The fabric is made with controlled porosity to screen out dirt and other foreign matter as the water passes through. When the cartridge becomes clogged with dirt, it is removed, washed, and returned to the filter. Successive use of the cartridge leaves a residue of dirt so that after several cleanings the cartridge is discarded and replaced with a new one. Having a spare cartridge to alternate in use is advisable.

 

SAND FILTER

 

Sand filters are designed to operate at various flow rates depending on their tank and internal component configurations.  With correct distribution and flow of water, the carefully sized sand bed will trap dirt throughout its depth thus providing a fairly large dirt retention volume. Without correct flow distribution, dirt may be driven through the sand without performing its intended function. Cleaning of the sand bed is done by passing water at high velocity in reverse (up flow) through the sand. This causes a scrubbing action of the sand freeing the dirt, which is carried to waste.

 

DIATOMACEOUS EARTH FILTER

 

Due to the fineness of the diatomaceous earth particles, a high degree of filtration efficiency may be obtained with this type of filter. A precoat layer of diatomaceous earth (filter aid) is applied hydraulically upon the surfaces of the filter elements or other filtration surfaces. Due to the minute pores created by this precoat layer, very small particles are screened out as the water passes through the filter, thus producing a highly polished sparkling condition in the water. After the filter has removed its capacity of dirt from the water and the flow has reduced appreciably, the clogged filter aid is removed by one of several means and discarded to waste.

 

BOTTOM AND SURFACE CLEANING

Surface cleaning is accomplished by automatic surface skimming and manual hand skimming.

 

FUNCTION OF SURFACE SKIMMER

 

The automatic surface skimmer is a device which is attached to the pump intake line and which rests on the pool surface. The continual flow of water from the surface of the pool through the skimmer removes floating debris such as oils, leaves, and other airborne materials before they settle to the bottom of the pool. A floating weir in the skimmer automatically adjusts for variations in the pool water level. The surface skimmer also serves as a convenient means of introducing filter aid for precoating a diatomaceous earth filter. NEVER ADD CHEMICALS THROUGH SKIMMER.

 

TYPES OF SURFACE SKIMMERS
  1. AUTOMATIC CIRCULAR TYPE SKIMMER – This design, attached to the suction line contains a floating weir that permits introduction of water from all directions, thus increasing the skimmer effectiveness. A self-contained strainer traps large particles such as leaves and twigs to prevent their entry into the pump.
  2. THRU-THE-WALL SKIMMER – Attached to the outer side of the pool wall, this permanently installed skimmer collects surface water without having any projections within the pool that might interfere with bathers. It provides a more positive control of skimming being rigidly mounted. A built-in strainer basket to collect leaves and other debris is easily removed for cleaning.

 

  1. HAND SKIMMER – The pool surface may be skimmed by hand with the leaf skimmer. It consists of a dished screen net supported by a rigid ring to which a handle is attached. By attaching an extension handle, leaves may also be removed from the bottom of the pool.

 

BOTTOM CLEANING

 

  1. DIRECT SUCTION CLEANER – This type of cleaner is operated from flow produced by the filter pump.  A vacuum cleaner hose is connected between the cleaner head and the pump intake line. This method produces an efficient means of cleaning. Sediment from the bottom of the pool is drawn through the cleaner head to the filter where the dirt is removed and the clear water is returned to the pool without waste. The cleaner head is moved systematically over the floor surface to remove all sediment. For most efficient operation, the filter and pump strainer should be clean before operating the vacuum leaner. Care should be used when operating vacuum cleaner in cove area. Some vacuum heads can puncture the liner in this area.

 

  1. JET VACUUM CLEANER – The operation of a jet-type cleaner requires the use of city water pressure which is conducted to the cleaner head through a garden hose. By means of an ejector jet built into the cleaner, a vacuum is created which picks up sediment from the pool floor and deposits it in a porous bag attached to the cleaner.

 

Above Ground Swimming Pool Pump and Filter Information

 

Above Ground Pool Chemical Basics

Above Ground Pool Chemical Basics

 

READY THE DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY

For sterilization of pool water chlorine is the most widely accepted and used chemical. It is an efficient bactericide as well as good algaecide when used properly. The amount of chlorine required to maintain a pool in a safe sterilized condition will vary depending upon several factors such as water temperature, extent to which the pool is used, degree or airborne contamination, sunlight exposure, and balance of other chemicals and minerals present in the water.

 

It is a good practice to maintain a free chlorine residual of between 0.3 and 0.6 ppm (parts per million) in the water at all times. This is based upon the use of chlorine without any stabilizing agent, such as cyanuric acid. If a stabilizer is used, the chlorine residual should be increased to at least 1.0 ppm.

 

Chorine plays another important role in addition to its sterilizing action. During the process of use of a pool there is an accumulation of various nitrogen containing organic compounds in the water. These nitrogen compounds tend to reduce the effectiveness of chlorine as a germicide. However, when chlorine is added in greater strength it will literally burn these undesirable materials rendering them inactive. Because of this it is important that a shock dosage of chlorine, 5 to 10 times the normal dosage, be added once every few weeks when the pool is not in use to burn out the nitrogen materials. This is referred to as Shock Treatment or Break Point Chlorination.

Chlorine Residual (free available) is the reserve amount of active chlorine present in the water available to immediately act upon bacteria or algae contamination as it may occur. This residual should be tested for daily, preferably in the morning before the pool is in use. The chlorine residual test is made with your water test kit. Two types of test kits are generally accepted in the swimming pool industry, OTO and DPD. OTO

  1. (orthotolidine) upon the addition of a few drops of OTO to a sample of pool water, a yellow color will develop in the sample if there is any chlorine present. The amount of chlorine is indicated by the intensity of the yellow and is determined by comparison with calibrated color standards which are a permanent part of the test kit. DPD (Diethyl-p-phenylene diamine) with this type of test kit, a DPD chlorine tablet is added to a sample of pool water, the amount of “free” chlorine is indicated by comparison of the resultant color to the color chart provided with the kit. To be assured of safe water, the chlorine residual should be kept between 0.3 and 0.6 ppm (parts per million). If a chlorine stabilizer such as cyanuric acid is used, the residual should be increased to at least 1.0 ppm.

 

  1. pH. The balance between acidity and alkalinity is referred to as pH. It is represented by numerical values ranging from 1.0 to 14.0. A value of 7.0 indicates a neutral condition, neither acid nor alkaline. Values below 7 represent an acid condition increasing in intensity as the numerical value decreases. Alkaline conditions are represented by values above 7.0 increasing in strength as the numbers become greater. The ideal pH for pool water is generally between 7.2 and 7.6.

 

  1. Balancing the pH. If the pH deviates too far from the normal it should be adjusted.

 

  1. Low pH. When the pH drops below 7.2 it should be adjusted upward by the addition of small quantities of soda ash. Too low a pH causes skin and eye irritation and will accelerate corrosion of pool equipment.

 

  1. High pH. If the pH rises above 7.6 pool acid, either the liquid or the dry form should be added to the water. Whenever any acid is introduced into the pool, it should be diluted and thoroughly mixed throughout the pool, to prevent corrosion. A high pH reduces the effectiveness of chlorine as a germicide and an algaecide. This condition also causes eye irritation.

Above Ground Pool Chemical Basics

Checklist for Above Ground Pool Cleaning

Checklist for Above Ground Pool Cleaning

Keeping your pool clean can be made easier by following a regular schedule. If you decide to do it yourself, a good checklist to follow for regular pool care is:

 

1.   Use a small hand-held leaf skimmer to help in cleaning the pool.

2.   Clean the strainer baskets in the skimmer and pump.

3.   Clean the tile and walls; tile is best cleaned with a soft brush and a pool tile cleaner. The clearing of pool walls will depend on your surface: cement, vinyl or fiberglass. Follow manufacturers’ suggested procedures.

4.   Vacuum the pool at least once a week.

5.   Test the water frequently and add chemicals if necessary, follow manufacturers’ directions.

6.   If water turns cloudy, test for chemical balance; if necessary, backwash and service the filter.

7.   Keep the deck clean and clear of debris.

Checklist for Above Ground Pool Cleaning

Adding Chlorine To Your Pool

Adding Chlorine To Your Pool

Assuming that the total alkalinity is at the right level and the pH is correct, chlorine can be added. The amount of chlorine to add depends on the present chlorine level and the type of chlorine used. Refer to the manufacturers instructions for quantity. 

As discussed previously, chlorine degrades rapidly under the influence of UV light. For this reason chlorine should be added only in the late afternoon or early evening, when it can dissolve and mix thoroughly before the damaging sun’s rays can affect it.

The chlorine should be evenly scattered/ poured around the pool or poured slowly in front of the return flow jets to ensure rapid and even distribution.

Chlorine should be kept at a level of 1.0-3.0 ppm to ensure sufficient sanitation. If you are using a Pool Wizard, a level of 0.5 ppm is required. This combination will provide a far superior sanitation to chlorine alone.

If the pool has very high levels of contamination or there is a strong smell of chlorine around the pool, you may need to shock treat the water. This involves adding large quantities of non-stabilized chlorine (or non-chlorine oxidizers) to the pool, which rapidly destroys the offending matter.

 

Above Ground Pool Accessory Information

Above Ground Pool Accessory Information

 

Automatic controls added to your pool system can turn the support system on and off. Backwash to clean the filter and maintain the chlorine level.

 

Devices now on the market can measure mounting water pressure, a sign of a clogged or dirty filter, and activate valves to backwash the filtration system. There are automatic timers (24-hour time clocks) and dispensers to automatically feed chemicals into the water and automatic pool cleaners.

 

There are also various types of pool cleaners: vacuum systems for the floor of the pool, units that clean the surface and cleaning systems that use underwater hoses to direct objects toward the main drain. Some units are removed for swimming while others can remain in the water at all times.

 

Sanitizing systems also make up a big part of the information.  Whether you use standard chlorine, chlorine feeders or alternative systems like Salt Water Generators or Ionizing systems the choice is yours

 

Routine Above Ground Pools Care And Maintenance

Routine Above Ground Pools Care And Maintenance

Owning a pool can make every day seem like a holiday.  But like all good things, a pool needs care and attention if you are to get the best out of it.  Clear, sparkling, pure water doesn’t just happen by itself.  This guide will help you achieve that brilliant water quality.

Why is it necessary to treat water at all? The answer is that swimming pool water is re-circulated and constantly reused.  Bacteria, viruses and other micro-organisms are carried into this water by bathers. Some of these organisms may be harmful to health and must be destroyed before they can pass from one bather to another. Dirt and impurities can also be introduced by bathers, wind and rain and need to be removed to achieve good water quality.

Water treatment must also be carried out to prevent the growth of algae – tiny aquatic plants which can rapidly turn your pool water or pool surfaces green. Finally, water must be treated to ensure the pool, equipment and fittings come to no harm through corrosion or scale formation.

The POOLIFE Routine Maintenance Program
4 Easy Steps to the Most Brilliant Clean Eever Seen.

1. Test the pool water and adjust the pH.  Then select your preferred POOLIFE Pool Care System
2. Chlorinate and clarify to keep bacteria at bay 24 hours a day.  Use your preferred POOLIFE Primary Sanitizer.
3. Shock once a week to clear up cloudy water, kill algae, and destroy organic contaminants and much more.  For best
    results use calcium hypochlorite based POOLIFE TurboShock or POOLIFE Rapid Shock.
4. Prevent algae, especially in the hot summer months by adding your preferred POOLIFE Algaecide once a week OR if
    you have chosen the Multipurpose Cleaning Tablet system that already contains an algaecide.  Add extra sparkle to
    your pool water by adding a water enhancer such as POOLIFE Pool Plus.

 

 

                       

Routine Maintenance
Your pool water should be tested for pH, free available chlorine (FAC), total alkalinity (TA), calcium hardness (CH) and stabilizer levels. Testing your pool water is a very simple way to ensure your pool has balanced water. Take a sample of pool water to your Authorized POOLIFE® Dealer each month during the summer season for a detailed analysis.  Or you could invest in a good quality POOLIFE test kit or test strips to measure for pH, free available chlorine and total alkalinity. Test strips are a quick and easy alternative to the traditional test kit.

 

Ideal Ranges
   » pH:  7.2 – 7.6
   » FAC:  1 – 4 p.p.m.  (parts per million)
   » TA:  60 – 120 p.p.m. 
   » CH:  200 – 500 p.p.m. (up to 1,000 is acceptable)
   » Stabilizer:  20 – 50 p.p.m.

 

Helpful Tips
   » Wait 24 hours after a shock treatment before testing for FAC or pH.
   » Rinse the collection container a few times with pool water. Do this before and after each use.
   » Collect water that is 18 inches (about an arm’s length) below the surface and away from an inlet pipe.
   » Test the water promptly after collecting it.
   » Replace all test solutions at the beginning of the summer season.
   » Always correct the TA before adjusting the pH.
For personal professional advice, visit your Authorized POOLIFE dealer. 

 

Routine Pool Care Summary

       Daily:  Test and adjust the pH and chlorine levels
                   Run your filtration system 8 – 12 hours a day during summer (12 hours is better).

  Weekly:  Test the TA level (daily is preferable).
                   Shock treat with your preferred POOLIFE shock treatment product.
                   Add a preventive dose of your preferred POOLIFE algaecide.
                   Remove leaves and other debris from pool.
                   Empty skimmer and pump baskets.
                   Brush pool floor and walls.
                   Check water level and top up if necessary.
                   Check filter pressure and backwash only if required (follow manufacturer’s recommendations).

 Monthly:  Take a pool water sample to your Authorized POOLIFE Dealer for a full water analysis. This should
                   include: pH, FAC, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, TDS, Cyanuric and Metals. 

Routine Above Ground Pools Care And Maintenance

Keeping Your Above Ground Swimming Pools Looking New

Keeping Your Above Ground Swimming Pools Looking New

 

A well-built and well-maintained pool will last for years. But after a while, even the best care will not prevent a pool from showing signs of age.

 

An old pool, or even a poorly maintained pool, is not a lost investment. A few repairs or simple refurbishings may be all that is needed. If major work is called for, you’ll probably want a pool contractor to do it for you.

 

Repairing Cracks

 

In-ground cement or gunite pool walls may crack from earth movements under the shell or around the deck. Hairline cracks are easily repaired with a small amount of plaster, caulking compound or epoxy putty once you lower the water below the damaged area.

 

Check the extent of the crack. Large cracks may indicate a serious problem, possibly from soil movement or poor drain-age. If a large crack should appear, it may be necessary to drain the pool and you’ll want to consult a pool professional.

Replastering Concrete Pools

 

For best appearance, concrete pools should be replastered about every 10 to 15 years or repainted every 3 to 5 years. This is because daily contact with pool chemicals and changing water temperatures often cause flaking or chipping. Slight damage can be buffed and patched or painted over. In areas where mineral content or water hardness is excessive, it may be necessary to replaster sooner.

Mending a Vinyl Liner

Most tears or punctures arc easily repaired by the pool owner. Some vinyl companies even offer underwater patching kits, so you don’t need to drain the pool for repairs. Tears longer than 2 to 3 inches are considered serious. If the repair is very costly to fix, it may be better to replace rather than repair the liner.

 

Repairing Fiberglass Surfaces

 

Although this material is strong and durable, after time the smooth finish may fade, chip or discolor. If this occurs, your warranty as many manufacturers cover surface deterioration. If the damage is small, patching the area may be all that is necessary, For larger areas, you may have to recoat the entire pool. A simple coat of epoxy paint may improve the appearance of an older fiberglass shell. Always follow manufacturers’ recommended procedures.

 

Tile Care

 

Tile trim along the inner edge of a pool can be very sensitive to shifts in the soil, and it can crack or pop off. Stronger adhesive can be used to relay the tile; but if there is actual structural damage, some excavation and rebuilding

 

Keeping Your Above Ground Swimming Pools Looking New

Winterizing Your Above Ground Swimming Pools

Winterizing Your Above Ground Swimming Pools

 

Pool Care in Colder Climates 
  
In almost every climate, some precautions should be taken to winterize your pool. This may mean simply washing off pool equipment and accessories and storing them under cover, or it may mean closing down the pool. 
  
Simple Winterizing 
  
In some climates, you will probably keep your pool filled, continuing routine maintenance on a reduced schedule. Run the filter for half the time you normally would in the summer season, check the pH level and chlorinate only once a week. Pool covers help keep the pool clean and the pool water and chemicals from evaporating. Check with your local NSPI pool professional for special advice that applies to your area. 
Closing the Pool 
  
Only a few pools need to be drained during the winter. In fact, many pools fare cold temperatures better when partially filled with water as a buffer. A drained pool can also crack or pop out of the ground because of pressure from ground water. Your NSPI builder can give you guidelines to follow if you must drain your pool. 
  
If you close your pool, keep these things in mind: 
  
Get your water balanced properly to prevent stains, scaling and algae growth. Put in an extra dose of sanitizer to help keep the pool clean and algae free. 
  
Thoroughly clean and vacuum the pool. Drain below the skimmer inlet lines or in heavy freeze areas, below the return lines and then plug the lines. 
Close valves on the skimmer. 
  
Make sure water does not accumulate and freeze in skimmers. 
  
Clean and backwash the filter. 
  
Drain all water in the heater, filter, pump and piping system. Remove the pump motor and store in a dry place. 
  
Turn off all power to the support equipment and remove fuses or turn the circuit breakers to OFF. 
  
If you have a slide or diving board, take it off and store it. 
  
Cover the pool and plug all openings. 
  
Store chemicals in a cool dry place.

Starting Up Your Above Ground Swimming Pools

Starting Up Your Above Ground Swimming Pools

  1. Fill Pool and prime pump, add D.E. if desired
  2. And Sun Scale and Iron Remover. This helps prevent staining corrosion or scaling on pool and equipment
  3. Add Sun Clarifier (as per instructions) This condenses small particles for easier filtration
  4. Add Sun Conditioner, 8oz. per 1000 gallons (dissolve in a pail of warm water first)
  5. run Filter All night to completely filter and circulate the water.
  6. Shock the Pool with Sun Burn or Sun Granular Chlorine per instruction. Always pre-dissolve chlorine before adding to a vinyl liner pool. Pour in return outlet to circulate quickly. This helps to oxidize organic material.
  7. Add Sun Tablets (sticks) Use a floater or auto-chlorinator . We de not recommend putting tablets in skimmer as this promotes corrosion of filter parts and can damage liners.
  8. Add Sun Algaecide as per instructions.
  9. Check pH using a test kit and adjust using sun minus or sun plus. adjust with small quantities and check in an hour
  10. In one week have water tested.

 

Starting Up Your Above Ground Swimming Pools

Basic Swimming Pool Maintenance

Basic Swimming Pool Maintenance

To make sure your  pool water is clean and clear we focus our topic in two main areas.  The maintenance or restoring of your Chemistry Balance of your swimming pool water and the cleaning of dirt and particulate matter from your pool.

The balance of water chemistry in an above ground pool is attained by testing. The adding of chemicals alone will not keep your pool water balanced, you must test the pool and see which levels have to be adjusted and adding chemicals only as proscribed by the tests. For your pool to function at it’s best, this balance must be maintained.

Secondly to insure good pool water maintenance we must remove particulate matter and dirt.  This is achieved by water circulation of the pool through a filtering system. Also brushing and vacuuming of the pool’s walls and sides will keep the pool from “growing” dirt or algae. With use of an automatic pool cleaner, this can be done at the same time as filtration. Cleaning the filter when needed will optimize this process.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure and if you keep up  with maintenance it will prevent the  dreaded pool water problems that can occur when things get out of hand.

 

More Information

 

Do it Yourself Above Ground Pool Installation

Whether you want to install a new technology in an hour or a old style pool installation, we have videos for both!

21st Technology Legacy Style above Ground Pool Installation Information 20th Century Technology Above Ground Pool Installation Information
Do it Yourself In An Hour No EXTRA COST Pay someone to do it, or do it yourself
New Technology Pools 1 Hour Install

New Technology Pools 1 Hour Install

Old Style Pool, 2 Day Installation

Old Style Pool, 2 Day Installation

Do you want to spend about an hour Installing your above ground pool? Buy a New Technology Pool If you like the old style pool, prepare to spend a weekend installing your Pool then you can get a steel above ground pool.
info info
Were you are aware that you can save up to half the price of an an above ground pool if you do it yourself?  Why pay $2000.00 – $3000.00  to have someone install your pool when you can do it yourself?  We’ll Help you!Do It Yourself! Installing Above Ground Pools



Do it yourself with our Tech Advise By Phone and save!

 

  • A complete on call staff of pool installation professionals  from our 65 years of experience in above ground pools who can walk you through  each step of the process from
 
  • Ground Preparation
  • Frame Setup and Assembly
  • Liner Installation with our proven “no wrinkle” system
  • Filling and Water Preparation

Once you buy a pool from Arthur’s Pools our stable of above ground pools experts are ready to help you 7 days a week.

Call Us and we will help you put up any pool that you have bought from us

This service is only available to Arthur’s Pools Customers.

 

 

 

See How To Put a Pool In the Ground Without voiding the warranty A Quick Overview Of Above Ground Pool Installation

 

 

 

Do it Yourself Above Ground Pool Installation

 

Hooking Up Your Filter To Your Pool

Hooking Up Your Filter To Your Pool

Step 1 Installing Your Through The Wall Fittings

Hooking Your Filter To Your Pool

The Clear Gasket Allows you twist on the nut without bending the grey gaskets

Step 2  Attaching the Hoses

Hooking Your Filter To Your Pool

Slide the Hose onto the bar fitting and clamp down

 

Step 3 attach Hoses to Filter

Filter

The hose from the outlet (skimmer) goes to the hair and lint trap

The Hose to the inlet  attaches to the bottom of the filter cannister

 

Hooking Up Your Filter To Your Pool

Some Simple Facts About Vinyl Liner Pools

Some Simple Facts About Vinyl Liner Pools that nobody else told you.

 

  • Do not install a pool on Concrete Asphalt or Sand

  • Do not install Pools on Slanted Elevations

  • When Installing Liners Duct Tape any rough edges on your top ledges or pool wall, when the liner stretches it cam pull, tear and damage the liner. Make sure to remove the duct tape after you install the liner because it leaves an unsightly residue if left on too long.

  • Roots and Grass Can grow through your liner*

  • AND…Moles Gophers Squirrels and even Termites can eat through your liner

  • AND…Objects Thrown into your pool (by yourselves or neighbors) can damage pool Liner

  • AND….A Kid could shoot an arrow into your pool and puncture the liner

  • AND….(you get the idea)

  • While pool Pool Pad helps Grass can still penetrate your liner.

Steel Walled Pool Liners are between 10 and 25 Mils thick, while they are tough, they are by no means impervious to damage.

* Many of these problems can be avoided if you by a soft sided pool, however while it can cost hundreds to replace a 20 mil liner, it can cost up to a thousand or more to replace a Soft Sided liner, since it is the pool.  The best Policy is to use care when you buy, place, install and maintain your pool.

We Just thought you should be aware.

Arthur’s Pools

 

Above Ground Pool Pad and Coving

Above Ground Pool Pad and Coving

Pool Coving is:

  • Flexible and Lightweight
  • Extends Pool Life
  • Easy To Install
  • Prevents Washout and Corrosion
  • Protects Liners
  • Will Not Move Like Sand 

Coving is an Integral part of every pool system, whether with sand, (not recommended)  Or our neutral poly foam permanent cove. Protect yourself from liner blow out.

 Permanent Pool Coving is a 3 inch by 4 inch preformed foam strip and is safe for use with all pool liners. Lightweight and easy to handle, Permanent Pool Coving comes in 48 inch long sections that bend easily without breaking and works with all pool brands.  The plastic backing strip locks each section of cove into the bottom rail, allowing it to move as the pool wall expands and contracts. Unlike sand or dirt, Permanent Pool Coving can not be washed out and will not hold moisture against metal components. This feature reduces corrosion and may add years of life to a pool and its components. Because Permanent Pool Coving is made from a high density foam, it will not change shape or indent, making pool cleaning easier

 

It Is recommended by the manufacturer to purchase Pool Cove and Arthur’s Comfy Bottom Together

Arthur’s Comfort Bottom Pad

“Give Your Pool A Comfy Bottom”

Installing Over Straps

Comfy Bottom Going Down in Strips

Comfy Bottom Installed Completely (Over Perma Cove)

   

 

Arthur’s Comfy Bottom:

  • Is Easy To Install
  • Extends Liner Life
  • Insulates Pool to Prevent Heat Loss
  • Keeps a Smooth “Comfy” Bottom for Easier Cleaning
  • High Density Lowe Compression and stays in place

Arthur’s Comfy Bottom Pool Pad Will Protect your liner for years. Made from a special high density polyethylene foam, Arthur’s Comfy Bottom Pool Pad acts as a  barrier to keep  water away from metal components, reducing rust and corrosion. In addition, by adding a layer of protection between your pool liner and the ground you had puncture protection and heat retention. 

Arthur’s Comfy Bottom Pool Pad is easy to install. First, roll out sections of pad and cut them one foot longer than the (biggest if oval) dimension of the pool. Next, seam enough 4 ft. wide sections together with tape to cover the (smaller if oval) dimension of the pool. Trim off excess pad material after pool has been filled.

Click Here to see our price list.

 

How To Make an Above Ground Pool Into an In-Ground Pool

How To Make an Above Ground Pool Into an In-Ground Pool

And Save Lots of Money

 How To Make an Above Ground Pool Into an In-Ground Pool

How To Make an Above Ground Pool Into an In-Ground Pool

How To Make an Above Ground Pool Into an In-Ground Pool

Install a pool in the ground

 

 

 

Excavate the Pool Site

Allowing for Buttresses (if any)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Set Up the Pool In the Pit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Excavate One end for a Deep End

(Expandable Liner Required)

 
 

Install a Pool In The Ground

 

 

 

Install Liner

 

 

 

 

 

Plumb The Pool

 

 

 

 

 

Fill In Around the Walls and Enjoy

Please note while you can do this to any pool it does void the warranty, which you will most likely never need.


Additional Information

Butresses

Kikky

   

Place Supports for the Buttress ends

Mr Lilly In England Accomplished This Project

   

Partially Inground

Partially Inground

Partially In Ground

Partially In-round Finished

   

Fully Inground Pool

Fully Inground Pool

All the way in the Ground

All The Way In The Ground Finished



If you want to put the pool in the ground but still preserve your warranty, Follow the way it was done in the video below

 

Deep End Above Ground Pools

Deep End Above Ground Pools

Give your Oval Pool a 6ft Deep End Or Your Make the center of your round pool 6ft Deep

deepend1

deepend2 exline5

Click On Each Picture Below to Enlarge Them

Prepare the Area

Dig and Smooth the Deep End

Install the Frame

Install the wall and perform final shaping

Smooth Deep End

Install Coving , Pad and Liner

Rough Excavation Close Up

Smoothed Excavation

Finished Products

Deep End with Comfy Pad and Cove

With Liner Installed

And Then Enjoy!

 

Excavation Begins                                                 Deep End is Smoothed and Finishes

How a Round Pool Is Expanded

 

Give your Oval Pool a 6ft Deep End Or Your Make the center of your round pool 6ft Deep

Give your Oval Pool a 6ft Deep End Or Your Make the center of your round pool 6ft Deep

How an Oval Pool Is Expanded

 

Oval

Oval

If you are going to remove the straps under the pool to extend the deep end you are going to have to put pier blocks under the wall and brace on each side of the pool (4 per brace removed) and attach the pool to the pier blocks with sturdy screws. This will not work in soft ground.

 

For Complete Liner Installation Instructions Click Here

 Click On This Picture to Enlarge

 Deep End Above Ground Pools

Composite Above Ground Pools Information

Composite Above Ground Pools Information

 

Laguna Portable Pools
Put Any Pool In the Ground Everything to know about Installing a composite Pool Click Click Installation





 

 

 From the best of the best Legacy  Pool to the inexpensive Family Fun Pool we have what you are looking for, whether it is something to last a life time, or just  a summer or two they are all right here. We also have the lowest prices on the internet. Our Premium Quality Portable Pools are the strongest pools available! Good for families with kids, dogs and even lions! These Pools are Tested and Approved By Olla Click Here to See More

   

 Premium Portable Pools Are Tough!





Portable Pool Deck Ideas

Click to Enlarge Any Picture


Legacy Deck Portable Pool decks Portable Pool Decks Portable Pool Decks
Beauty   Legacy Deck Legacy Deck
Underview long view Hotel View
Ahhh Portable Backyard paradise Backyard Paradise3





 
























 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Composite Above Ground Pools Information

In-Ground Above Ground Pools – Put Any Pool In The Ground

Any pool can go in the ground with our method as laid out below. It is very simple and clean and unlike the typical pool “burial” it leaves your pool accessible to maintenance

In-Ground Above Ground Pools – Put Any Pool In The Ground

Your Choice, You can do this with any pool!
Above Ground Pools  And Portable Pools Can Go Above The Ground or In the Ground With A Deck.

Have that in ground pool look and save lots of money!

Step One….Get the Most Out Of Your Pool Dollar.
Any Pool Can Go In The Ground With Our Method
Don’t Pay a bundle for a pretty pool with a fancy warranty When you can get the same look for less!
 

Watch the Process By Tanner Biz On A Steel Above Ground Pool

By using a retaining wall to hold back the dirt, Your Warranty is not voided! 



The below pictures are of the same pool, just with a different treatment


This Can Look Like  ——————————->

Works Just the same for Portable Pools or Above Ground Pools


Just  Follow These Steps

Step 1: Dig a hole and assemble the Pool in the hole



Step 2 Reinforce the dirt to keep it from collapsing back on the pool



Step 3: Build a Deck Right Over The Top!
   
  Step 4: Enjoy!

 

Above Ground Pool Installation: Information and Videos

Above Ground Pool Installation: Information and Videos

Welcome to Arthur’s Pools step by step Above Ground Pools installation pictorial guide. One of the most daunting aspects of purchasing an above ground pool is how hard or how easy is it to put together an above ground pool? Well many of the leading manufacturer’s (whose products we feature)  have made it easier than ever to put together their above ground pools. By walking through this pictorial guide you should be able to get a better idea of the process of installing above ground pools

 

Step By Step Above Ground Pool Installation

Step By Step Above Ground Pool Installation

Above Ground Pools Installation Step 3 Wall Assembly

Above Ground Pools Installation  Comfy Pad and Cove

Step 1 Ground Preparation

Step 2  Frame Assembly

Step 3 Wall Assembly

Step 4 Comfy Bottom and Cove

Step By Step Above Ground Pool Installation

liner installation

Installing Above Ground Pools, Final Steps

Enjoy

Step 5  Liner Installation Part 1

Step 6 Liner Ins

Step 7 Finishing

Enjoy (Click this Picture To Enlarge)

       
       
       
4 Part Video Series For Installing  Above Ground Pools
  Round Pool Installation Videos Oval Pool With Braces Installation Videos Oval Pool With Without Braces Installation Videos

Watch This Great Video By Tanner Biz

Above Ground Pool Installation: Information and Videos






Do It Yourself Installation – Above Ground Pools

Do It Yourself and SAVE!

Were you are aware that you can save up to half the price of an an above ground pool if you do it yourself?  Why pay $2000.00 – $3000.00  to have someone install your pool when you can do it yourself?  We’ll Help you!Do It Yourself! Installing Above Ground Pools

Do It Yourself Installation – Above Ground Pools

We have to offer you:

  • A complete on call staff of pool installation professionals  from our 65 years of experience in above ground pools who can walk you through  each step of the process from
 
  • Ground Preparation
  • Frame Setup and Assembly
  • Liner Installation with our proven “no wrinkle” system
  • Filling and Water Preparation

Once you buy a pool from Arthur’s Pools our stable of above ground pools experts are ready to help you 7 days a week.

Call Us and we will help you put up any pool that you have bought from us

This service is only available to Arthur’s Pools Customers.

Also we have a complete online resource

 Do It Yourself Installation – Above Ground Pools

 

See How To Put a Pool In the Ground Without voiding the warranty A Quick Overview Of Above Ground Pool Installation

 

 Do It Yourself Installation – Above Ground Pools

Above Ground Pool Information Resources

Above Ground Pool Information Resources

Buying a Pool, Planning and Installation of And Above Ground Pool Experts Pools

 yplanning

Step 1

Planning

When you are ready to begin the process of getting an above ground pool you can send us pictures of your area, with simple space measurements, and Idea of the kind of set up up you are looking for : Just a Pool on the ground, A pool with deck, a pool in the ground with a deck or whatever you are looking for

 

   
 mapicon

Step 2

Purchase and Delivery

Order the pool and the equipment that you have determined that you want.  We have different equipment and pools in different locations all around the country. Upon your order we will send all the items to our local distribution center in a matter of days and then deliver them to your Curbside

   
 Selt Install

Step 3

Installation – Option 1  Self Install

Above Ground Pools are very easy to install, and portable pools are even easier. If you can do the job yourself you will save thousands. But you will not be alone. With our phone service an above ground pool expert will walk you through the entire installation process, and review pictures of the installation and advise.  Again it is not at all hard to do this.  Check Out Our self installation videos to see more.

 

   
 Do It Yourself  Installation – Option 2  Have it Installed. If you absolutely need to have someone to install your pool we suggest hiring a local professional. But NOT a “professional pool installer” as we said these are unreliable and many times end in heart breakIf you are just putting the pool ion the ground, a local handy man is more than capable of doing this and it will save you at least one thousand dollars

 

If you want something more complex, like a a pool deck or putting the pool in the ground, then you can get a local contractor.

In both these cases we will have an above ground pool expert on stand by to answer any or all of their questions. Including picture review of the ongoing process

Local handymen and contractors can be found in various locations such as craigslist or Angie’s List. Since these people are coming to your backyard and you will pay them is highly recommended that you get references.  Angie List charges a small fee but all of their listings include reviews,  Remember your search term is Handymen or Contractor….NOT pool installer.



Do It Yourself      
Do It Your Self Installation Above Ground Pools Installation Pictures and Videos Put Any Pool In the Ground With Our System Do You Want Something Easier (and cheaper) to install? Try our Stronger Portable Pools
See How To Put a Pool In the Ground Without voiding the warranty A Quick Overview Of Above Ground Pool Installation


Why buy from The Swimming Pool Experts

We have 65 years + experience in the industry

We know what it takes to make the perfect backyard vacations

We are there with you before, during and AFTER your purchase

We have more styles size, shapes, uses…..than ANYONE!

We have more payment options. Credit Card Cash, Check By Phone, Wire Transfer, Financing

We have more distribution points. We ship from all over the country direct to you

Better pricing with no gimmicks. Each pool is priced with a basic equipment package with a pump and filter sized just for it, An a-frame Ladders, skimmer hoses, connections, liner. Everything you need to get started. If you want to add more you can.

You can completely customize your package, as the burger joint have it your way! Any size Any Equipment anything. We ship above ground pools around the block and around the world we can do it.
 
Above Ground Pool Information Resources

Above Ground Pool and Portable Pool Installation Videos

Above Ground Pools Installation Videos

4 Part Video Series For Installing  Above Ground Pools
  Round Pool Installation Videos Oval Pool With Braces Installation Videos Oval Pool With Without Braces Installation Videos
       
       

Watch This Great Video By Tanner Biz

Bar1Portable Pool Installation Video

 

Bar1

Above Ground Pool and Portable Pool Installation Videos